[DeTomaso] Engine/ZF pull - instructions & recommendations?

[cengles at cox.net]

Dear Scott and Tony, 

Interesting discussion on R&R drivetrain techniques. 

I had not removed the six lower bolts holding the motor mounts on. I had always removed the two angled bolts in the upper motor mount. I suppose that removing the six lower bolts for the lower motor mount would permit a straight lift up slightly and then out. Seems like a good idea. 

I remove the carb and distributor cap only from the top of the engine. 

I found the load leveler to be a problem. It my experience, it decreased the working room above the drivetrain and produced an embarassing dent in the undersurface of the rear roof requiring a gentle fix by my friendly paint and body man. Oops. 

Warmest regards, Chuck Engles 



---- Scott Couchman <scottcouchman at yahoo.com> wrote:
>I'm no expert, but I've pulled my engine/ZF several times in the last year.
>
>First on the stud vs bolt, I switched from studs to hex bolts after reviewing the change with RBT
>I can remove the rear ZF mounts from the ZF with an end wrench.
>This allows me to remove the ZF without removing the engine.
>I've only done this once, but I was glad I had the option.
>Removing the ZF alone is MUCH easier than removing the engine/ZF
>
>As for removing the engine, I recommend removing and replacing the engine/ZF as a unit
>The one totally necessary tool is a load leveler. I would not attempt to remove
>an engine/ZF without one. Other than that, I can pull mine by myself in less than a day.
>Remove the 6 bolts that secure the engine mounts and the 2 bolts that secure the ZF
>Lift the engine/ZF and remove the engine mounts
>Lift the rear of the ZF and more the engine/ZF to the rear to clear the roof
>Lift the engine/ZF and level it out over the rear of the body. Engine/ZF are out.
>Install in the reverse order.
>Not the end of the world.......