[DeTomaso] Gaskets

[Daniel C Jones]

> What brand gaskets are superior for intale, heads, valve covers, etc? ROL,
> Mr Gasket, Fel-pro.....?

For head gaksets, I like the Victor Reinz 3502SG (for 351C).  It's their
nitroseal material (graphite on a steel core).  No sealer or re-torque
required.  Available from NAPA but not cheap ($50 each last time I bought
a pair).  Don't confuse the 3502SG with their rebuilder type head gasket
(paper mesh on steel core) which is Victor Reinz 3502 without the SG.
Victor also has a headgasket for higher cylinder pressures (nitrous or
boost), p/n 3446 for 351Cs but I've not used any of those.  NAPA also carries
carbon impression paper that can be put between the head and block to see
if your head and block are sufficiently flat to ensure a good seal.  When
using premium multi-layer steel gaskets, a finish of 15 microinches Ra or
less is recommended.

What I usually do is buy a pair of Victor Reinz head gaskets and a Fel Pro
performance gasket set for everything else.  A SBF engine builder turned me
on to the Victor Reinz SG's.  He was building several SBF's per week and had
a big long peg holding the Fel Pro head gaskets that he would give away free.
Based upon occasional problems he had with the Fel Pro performance head
gaskets, he much prefers the Victor Reintz performance head gaskets which
were originally designed for heavy duty marine applications.  Many use RTV
only on the end seals but I prefer to use thick cork end seal gaskets with
RTV in the corners, after peening the block for gasket retention (so they
don't squeeze out).

For some applications like big bore race blocks, the selection is limited.
My Fontana block has a 4.1" bore and the usual 4.1" bore headgaskets weren't
large enough.  For situations like that Fel-Pro and Cometic usually have the
best selection.  I went with the Fel Pro 1022 and 1023 (left and right handed)
head gaskets which are 4.150" bore for my Fontana block with C302B heads.
These are the gaskets Fontana recommends for his block with those heads.
Cometic also makes head gaksets for that application but the Fel-Pro's
are composition type head gaskets with a pre-flattened steel wire ring
and looked like they would imprint the aluminum heads and block less than
the MLS Cometics.

Fel Pro also makes a thick three layer (cork-metal-cork) valve cover gasket
that may come in handy if you have clearance problems with roller rockers.
Permatex the gaskets to the valve covers and run them dry on the head side
if you plan on frequent removals.  Use the real FoMoCo paret number rubber
valve cover grommets on Boss cast aluminum valve covers.  The repos just
don't fit right and will leak.

> Intake Manifold -Printoseal Gasket

Some of the FE engine builders have had problems with those.

> I've head good things about MLS (multi layer steel) head gaskets, but I don't
> know if anyone makes one with the correct water passages for a Cleveland. I
> think both Fel Pro and Cometic make them for a SBF.

Cometic makes them for the Cleveland.  They don't show up on their web
menus but are listed in their PDF catalog.  The part number is C5871-040
for  351C/351M/400 applications (4.1" bore).  Not cheap at $150 per pair.
I have a set of these to use on the dyno engine since they can be re-used
and can verify they have the correct water passages for a Cleveland.

If you are running aluminum heads on an iron block, the different expansion
rates cause a lot of momvement of the head relative to the block during
thermal cycles, particularly if you live in a cold climate.  Ford (3.8L V6)
and Chrysler (2.2L I4) had lots of problems with aluminum heads on iron blocks.
If running aluminum heads on an iron block, re-torque the head gaskets
occasionaly.  Modern head gaskets (as opposed to steel shim gaskets) are
coated with Teflon or graphite to allow movement without abrading the heads.

When running aluminum heads and blocks, I like to use K&W block seal (in the
copper colored can) to seal up any porosity.  We've used it numerous times
to fix leaks on everything from my dad's 1937 Chrysler Imperial (overported
block leaking into exhaust manifold) to a Rolls Royce aluminum V8 (headgasket)
to my sister's Chrysler minivan.  The stuff works.  It's essentially a sodium
silicate solution (similar to egg preservative from drug stores).  Since the
1960's Chrysler and Jaguar (and likely other manufacturers) used the stuff to
fix porous castings.  The K&W directions instruct you to get all the coolant
(including that in the block which means opening the block drains) out.  It's
a two day process as you will need to let it set up for 24 hours.  Follow the
instructions to the letter.  Drain all the coolant out.  To do this you'll
need to remove the block drain plugs then flush water through the system.
Re-fill with water and use a can of K&W block seal.  Then run the engine and
drain again and let it set up over night.  Silicate is soluble in cold water
but precipitates from hot water to form a glassy inorganic coating that adheres
well.

Dan Jones