[DeTomaso] Mushy brakes

[tony DiGiovanna]

I believe the original steel brake lines on all panteras should be replaced.
They've been there for ever, there's always moisture present in the brake
fluid, most people are lazy about flushing the system regularly, steel does
rust, and most folks will push their pantera once in a while.  If the lines
are going to brake, it'll be when you need them most.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
[mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of Will Kooiman
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 8:57 AM
To: Pantera List
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Mushy brakes


The biggest improvements I made to my brakes were:

1. Bleeding both screws in the front calipers.  I missed the lower screw for
the first year I had the car.  I lot of orange gunk came out on the first
bleed.
2. Good pads (I have Porterfield r4s)
3. braided stainless brake lines at all 4 wheels - they made a noticeable
difference in the hardness of the pedal
4. Removing the proportioning valve - you can switch to a gutted valve if
you want the stock look.  I was going to add an adjustable prop valve, but I
didn't need it.  No prop valve was just right.  I removed the shuttle valve
at the same time, but I think removing the prop valve did the trick - not
the shuttle valve.

Each of these made a noticeable difference in my brakes.  I was very
unimpressed with my brakes when I got my car.  After I made the last change,
I felt like the brakes were as good as the brakes on my wife's Porsche.
Okay, I admit.  That's a stretch, but you get the idea.  The brakes were
nice and hard.  I could stop much faster than I've ever needed to. (until
the rotors get too hot - which vented rotors would fix)

By the way, I've never taken the calipers apart.  They could probably use a
rebuild.  All of my brake bleeds have been done with a self bleeder cup that
you can find at any parts store.  It's important to get the air out, but I
think it's more important to do the stuff I listed.

There's one more thing.  While I was working on my brakes, I broke one of
the brake lines.  It was rusted so badly, it snapped in two.  Scary, hunh?
After that, I replaced every hard line.

Will.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Don Franck
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 3:45 PM
To: unlisted-recipients:; no To-header on input
Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Mushy brakes

The pedal does stop, it just feels very mushy.  The brakes were fine, but I
have not driven the car but about 50 miles in the last three years.  This
last time I got in the car was when I noticed the pedal felt "mushy"

Don


On 3/14/08, ProvaMo.com <Pantera007 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> Mushy, usually means air in the system (air can be compressed) or a master
> seal going bad.  I once found a leak in the booster line on one car.
>
> The procedure to bleed the brakes differs slightly depending upon the
> calipers.  The stock caliper has 2 bleed screws.
>
> What do you mean by mushy?  Does the pedal slowly sink to the floor, or
> does
> it stop at some point?
>
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
> We have rebuilt all the wheel cylinders and put new pads on.  I still have
> very mushy brakes.  Is there anything else to do other than the master
> cylinder?
>
> If I need to replace the master cylinder, what are your
> recommendations?  I
> only drive on the street.
>
> Don
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