[DeTomaso] Starter Refresh

SEL edlebby at yahoo.com
Wed Mar 12 20:04:01 EDT 2008


Something is just not right in Starter-ville.  Having looked at different things, it is time for a wholesale refresh.  Here is a step by step with parts.  I am hoping you might add items I have overlooked or tips/tricks.  Thanks.

Battery: 
buy new deep cycle marine battery
low profile to fit under hood - recommendations?
Negative Cable: 
from battery to grounding bolt near firewall - 
some have recommended 00 welding cable - is this guage necessary? - alternatives? - Jack D likes welding cable "-Welding cable has many more far finer copper wires braided into it than automotive cable, which is often aluminum nowadays. Current carrying capacity is rated by the metallurgy and surface area of all the tiny wires added together; a piece of 3/8" OD copper pipe won't carry as much current as a 3/8" OD braided cable. Don't skimp here- your new wire may carry practically ALL the current sent to the starter, which can be over 250 amps!"
clean ground post at fire wall
cut carpet away from ground post (currently melts and smokes as i crank starter)
Positive Cable: 
from battery to ammeter (amp meter? difference?) 
gauge?
once this goes through the fire wall, is it accessible from under the car? or does it snake through panels - tips/tricks on working this back?
at ammeter, what type of connecter do I need?
clean ammeter thoroghly - use die electric (sp?) grease or coppor antiseize at all connections [yes??]
what am I connecting to?
from ammeter to starter
gauge?
connectors
alternative from Larry Weston
"I pulled the heavy cable for the starter off the firewall (stock) solenoid and attached it to the big stud on the battery side of that solenoid. I made up a 12 guage wire with a spade terminal on one end for the terminal on the starter motor solenoid and a large ring terminal on the other end which got attached to the other big stud on the firewall mounted solenoid.
(cont.) This arrangement avoids starter current passing through two relays, sends serious current to the starter solenoid for more positive engagement (and keeps the load off my ignition switch) and still leaves the stock firewall solenoid in place to send a signal to the start spark retard wire on my Duraspark module." 
Would this work for me? - I have an MSD ignition of some sort (6AL?) - 
is this a better way to go (it clearly was for Larry)?
alternative from new starter motor I bought (see below)
"1) Primary cable [assume this is the positive cable off of the battery?] to the starter is moved to the "power" side of the starter relay (on the bulkhead) [what i have been calling the amp meter/ammeter??] ...so its always hot."
"2) A smaller gage wire (supplied with the kit, including pre-attached connectors) goes from the starter to the "other side" of the relay.
Starter Motor
bought new hi-torque, mini starter - need to install - have an email or two on that (thanks Tom Baranek)
model #3223 from www.dbelectrical.com $49
as above, it has its own wiring recommendations - 
Additional Grounding:
read many recommendation for additional grounding
Jack D writes:
On most U.S  Panteras, there's a stud near the rear of the frame designed to take a ground off the back of the ZF, and I've seen others that used a longer ground wire off a head bolt to a clean spot on the subframe extensions. The stock setup also depends on multiple spot-welds that make up our cars monococque, to carry starting current flow from the starter motor back to the front-mounted battery's ground post during starting, and on some cars with many broken (or never-made) welds, it just doesn't happen."
So, I replace the current ground strap (flat, 1" or so braided copper wire) - clean connections
Then run a [what? 00 weld cable? flat ground strap?] wire from a head bolt to a clean spot on the subframe extensions - not sure what the subframe extensions are? - when we say "clean spot" that means tap a hole and bolt it there...right?

Beyond that, I don't know - there are ton's of threads about doing something under the dash where a bunch of wires are grounded - some threads on ignition stuff - but none of that seems related to this project - but any and all other suggestions/thoughts are most welcome!! - thanks, stephen


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