[DeTomaso] Valve Seat Cutting
JDeRyke at aol.com
JDeRyke at aol.com
Sat Mar 8 22:19:14 EST 2008
In a message dated 3/8/08 1:18:46 PM, tonydigi at optonline.net writes:
> Was thinking of ,picking up some Neway valve seat cutters and associated
> parts. Thinking of
> driving them in my Bridgeport. Any experience out there or other tips, like
> what sizes are best for 2v and 4v heads, or positive experience with
> suppliers?
>
Unless you have lots and lots of time, I suggest using Lisle seat cutters
that pilot off the existing guides and are driven by a 1/2" drill rather that
trying to set up each seat in a mill. The compound angles for 351-Cs make this
extremely slow to set up correctly; each actual cut will be quick, but.... Pick
your valve size, then select a cutter to match the seats you want to use.
Hardened seats are a real pain to grind after being installed; I used Martin-Wells
Industries 'well-tite' valve seats for low-lead, LPG, propane and diesel with
no complaints in any performance engine. I cut the seat reliefs 0.002"
undrsized (automatic with piloted Lisle cutters), then heated the head up in
Judy's oven to 350F before broaching the seats in using the same cutter pilot. If
you degrease the head first, the kitchen will smell of hot degreaser and if
not, it will smell like charred oil; I suggest a night out for the wife..... Once
cooled, grind the new seats concentric with the guide also using piloted
cutters, port as desired etc. I never had a seat come out in either cast iron or
aluminum heads this way; cold-broaching them in will certainly lose you a seat
now 'n then, and magic glues don't work at combustion-chamber temperatures.
FWIW- J DeRyke
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