[DeTomaso] Electrical Gremlins still live!

[michael@michaelshortt.com]

Thanks all, keep the ideas coming, it'll be a couple of weeks before I have
another day to devote to it, the bigger the checklist, the better off I'll
be.

Michael in Savannah

On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 8:58 AM, Larry - Ohio Time Corp <
larry at ohiotimecorp.com> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> This web page will tell you how to "jump" the voltage regulator to make
> your
> alternator go to full charge. This way you will know that the alternator
> is
> working properly.
>
> http://www.balmar.net/Page64-troubleshooting.html
>
> If it charges fine you know the problem is in the wires. Most likely the
> gauge or charge light.
>
> Larry - Cleveland
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]
> On
> Behalf Of michael at michaelshortt.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:45 PM
> To: panteras
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Electrical Gremlins still live!
>
>  Greetings all,
>
> Today was the proverbial day from hell if measured by frustration level.
>
> I discover that the Alt had been replaced in the past ( as it would
> have been naturally ) and I should have known this because I have done
> belts before and it never really occurred to me to examine the thing
> as it worked fine ( note; know hat everything is before you need to
> know ).  IT was now an internal fan unit with a built in voltage
> regulator.
> Given all the advice from here pinpointing that as a possible cause of
> my non working gauges and constant battery drain, I opted to remove
> the ALT and take it to Advance Auto Parts and have it tested,
> sur'nuff, it was putting out a total of 4 volts, problem solved or so
> I thought.
>
> I bought a new unit ( pulley exchange required, so for the record, the
> unit that fits is for a 1992 Ford E150 Econoline Van with a 302 ) with
> 95 amps, that was 149.95, the super  performance version with 200 amps
> was not in stock and at 399.95 wasn't going to happen anyway.
>
> I went home, installed the new ALT and drove back to the store and
> ta-da. NOTHING!  Machine showed that I had no charge going on with a
> brand new ALT with new Voltage Reg installed with a new, properly
> tightened belt, etc.
>
> Still no gauges, and a dying battery because it ain't getting charged back
> up.
>
> I took the new rear GT$ taillights out, sanded away the paint where
> they mount to the bodywork, so I'm fairly sure that if I had a short
> or bad ground back there that it's gone.
>
> I'm at my wit's end.
>
> One suggestion was that our amp gauges are stupid and that it could be
> the problem ( as opposed to a Voltmeter ).
>
> all the fuses are fine and the Motor to chassis strap is fine.
>
> What else is there between the ALT and the battery that could
> interrupt the signal telling the ALt to get to work?
>
> as stated before I have a MSD-6AL, a MSD Electronic Dist, MSD Tach
> adapter, Accel 300+ wires,, MSD High Voltage coil, and the thing runs
> great as long as the battery has been charged up before you go out and
> obviously you can't use the headlights or it's gonna die fast.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Michael in Savannah
>
> BTW, I did a photo series on the ALT R and R and included the belts,
> I'll post that as soon as I can to the bottom of the root cause.
>
>
>
> --
> Michael L. Shortt
> Savannah, Georgia
> www.michaelshortt.com
> michael at michaelshortt.com
>
>
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-- 
Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael at michaelshortt.com


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