[DeTomaso] Rear upright removal, photo gallery

[MikeLDrew at aol.com]

In a message dated 6/30/08 0 31 2, JDeRyke at aol.com writes:


> If you drill the upright, you also need to drill the internal spacer or
> grease can't reliably penetrate inside there to prevent rust but it does 
> grease the
> bronze bushings. And if you do add an upright-zerk   be sure to add it on 
> the
> side, more-or-less in the middle of the casting numbers; I've seen guys 
> drill
> the bottom- and then they couldn't reach the zerk for service without 
> pulling
> the wheel. Adding a right-angle zerk to the bottom sometimes causes problems
> with wheel clearances, too. Marino's end-grease system has no access or
> clearance problems and lubes the shaft, spacer and the bushings, which is 
> how I did
> our Pantera. But thats just me-
> 

Actually, Jack, it's just the opposite.   When you drilled/tapped my uprights 
for zerk fittings back in 1989, you put them on the inside side.   When the 
upright was in place, the fitting pointed straight at the inside of the A-arm 
with about 1/4 inch clearance.   The upper ball joint had to be disconnected 
and the upright swung down in order for the zerk fitting to be accessed. :<(

And if you put them on the outside, the wheel needs to be removed to access 
them.

The vendors who sell the kits instruct you to mount them on the bottom of the 
upright; you're a million miles from the inside of the wheels when you do 
that, and you can access them without removing the wheel--and more significantly, 
without removing the upper ball joints. :>)

The best location is probably something facing inboard of 45 
degrees--something like 7 o'clock on the right side, 5 o'clock on the left side, when viewed 
from the rear....

Mike


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