[DeTomaso] MDs Radiators (1985 to 2008)

Barry Seib oldwheel at mts.net
Tue Jun 17 12:34:29 EDT 2008


Mike
I thought that the plan John Taphorn used had lots of merit and planned to
make most of the same changes to my system. Do you think the bleeds drilled
into the rear of his cyl heads are an essential part of the plan? I'd like
to skip them cause they spoil the "stock" appearance of my car. I plan to
use a bleed at the highest point in the pipe at the front of my engine
instead.

Thanks in advance for your opinion.
Barry

I know everyone is tired of hearing this but assuming that your radiator
isn't stopped up, if you would apply the modifications to your cooling
systems that are outlined in John Taphorn's article you will resolve your
problems.  When I recommended these changes to John I had applied them to
numerous cars with overheating problems and they were ALL resolved.  Several
people here on the forum have installed this system with the same results,
it works.  This isn't reinventing the wheel but simply putting in a proven
system that works replacing a system that was a bad design in the first
place.

Here is yet another example that I observed just last Sunday.  My friend,
Jack Houpe, bought a SPF GT40 at the same time that I did.  We also wrangled
Kirby Schrader, who we all know and love, into buying one at the same time.
Kirby is using the stock cooling arrangement that the completion guys are
doing to these cars.  Jack installed the system as described in the article.
Kirby is having overheating problems in traffic.  Sunday Jack set in line
for almost an hour creeping forward and waiting to get into the Shelby meet
show in Tulsa.  It was 90F degree hot outside.  The fans would cycle and the
motor never got over 90C.  It simply works.  Same cars, same radiators, same
big horsepower motors, different cooling layout.  One overheats and the
other doesn't. Yes, flow rates, idle flow versus cruise flow, radiator
thickness, baffles, shrouds, on and on and on all have something to do with
the performance of the system.  But, trust me, the design of the stock
system is faulty.  The pressure cap should NOT be on the high pressure side
of the motor and the design/tolerances of the Cleveland thermostat
arrangement will result in problems unless everything is exactly right.  My
recommendation, as it was to John, is to make the modifications that are
outlined in his article and you will be amazed at how few, if any, other
modifications that you will need to make.

Mike Trusty Engineering
15119 Gorgeous View Trail
Little Rock, AR  72210
Ph:  501-224-9013
Fax: 501-421-0151




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