[DeTomaso] Oil pressure question

asajay at asajay.com asajay at asajay.com
Fri Jun 13 16:34:49 EDT 2008


In some cases, some bozo has replaced an actual sending unit, with an  
idiot light switch.  Oil pressure okay, it reads on the gage, but when  
it drops, the switch (that normally makes the light come on) makes the  
gage go to zero quickly.  Put a real gage on the line to see, then  
replace your sender.

Asa Jay

Quoting JDeRyke at aol.com:

> In a message dated 6/13/08 11:51:53 AM, claywillmott at hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>> Anyone have this problem before or have any ideas?  It seems the pressure
>> should not be able to go 70 to 0 to 70 so quickly and be real.
>>
> Probably a sender problem. When I had this trouble, it turned out to be my
> own fault, sort of. You must use TWO nuts on the sender's electrical  
>  connection
> with the ring lug for the wire between the nuts. Back up the inner nut and
> tighten the outer one down on the wire. I realize they only give you  
>  one nut but
> 10-32 nuts are dirt cheap at the hardware store.... NOT using two nuts and
> tightening the single one down seems to pull the sender guts apart   
> so electrical
> contact is broken intermittently; in my case, the gauge worked fine cold but
> when things heated up, I got an intermittent reading and eventually, total
> failure. There's no repair for an intermitttent sender; ash-can it   
> and get another
> one; they're cheap. Note also this can happen on the water temp gauge sender.
>
> The only other thing it could be is a low oil level- maybe from a wrong
> length dipstick or if it shows up only in turns, you're using a   
> stock unbaffled
> pan. If only the electric gauge shows this, its likely a bad sender.  
>  The dipstick
> should be 38.0" long tip-to-edge-of-the-stop. These were all altered by a
> contractor for Ford and some were done wrong while others have been
> home-repaired, also wrong.
>
>
>> Also I noticed a new problem that the AC makes the car runs like crap now
>> and make a shaking and groaning noise intermittently.  Resolves   
>> when the AC is
>> off.  All AC is new and cold.  The AC noise must have began about the same
>> time as the oil pressure.
>>
> Vibration is a characteristic of the ancient design of that stock piston-type
> compressor. One big reason I changed to a rotary compressor was, the shaking
> at low speeds was making Judy car-sick. That compressor is essentially a
> single-cylinder engine with the cylinder laid down & pointing at the  
>  right side,
> and it seems not to be very well balanced so it shakes like an old 1-cylinder
> motorcycle engine. Change to a Sankyo rotary and you'll lose 20 lbs   
> of wt, the
> shaking and groaning will disappear and cooling will be even better than
> before. The vendors (and Sankyo themselves) sell a simple adapter to  
>  bolt into the
> stock Pantera bracket. Good luck- J Deryke
>
>
>
>
>
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