[DeTomaso] Oil pressure question

clay willmott claywillmott at hotmail.com
Fri Jun 13 16:03:33 EDT 2008


Thanks.   I will check the sender.

I do have the Sanden 508 R12 compressor already though and the
vibration thing is new. I took out my AC, heater core, etc and r-did it
all and it did not vibrate like this initially.  When it was about 100
degrees on the road stuck in traffic I did notice my new binary switch
keep turning off form higher pressure and then would turn back on but I
did not think much of it.  It kept cool.

From: JDeRyke at aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 15:23:03 -0400
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil pressure question
To: claywillmott at hotmail.com; detomaso at realbig.com

In a message dated 6/13/08 11:51:53 AM, claywillmott at hotmail.com writes:





Anyone have this problem before or have any ideas?  It seems the pressure should not be able to go 70 to 0 to 70 so quickly and be real.



Probably a sender problem. When I had this trouble, it turned out to be my own fault, sort of. You must use TWO nuts on the sender's electrical connection with the ring lug for the wire between the nuts. Back up the inner nut and tighten the outer one down on the wire. I realize they only give you one nut but 10-32 nuts are dirt cheap at the hardware store.... NOT using two nuts and tightening the single one down seems to pull the sender guts apart so electrical contact is broken intermittently; in my case, the gauge worked fine cold but when things heated up, I got an intermittent reading and eventually, total failure. There's no repair for an intermitttent sender; ash-can it and get another one; they're cheap. Note also this can happen on the water temp gauge sender. 

The only other thing it could be is a low oil level- maybe from a wrong length dipstick or if it shows up only in turns, you're using a stock unbaffled pan. If only the electric gauge shows this, its likely a bad sender. The dipstick should be 38.0" long tip-to-edge-of-the-stop. These were all altered by a contractor for Ford and some were done wrong while others have been home-repaired, also wrong.





Also I noticed a new problem that the AC makes the car runs like crap now and make a shaking and groaning noise intermittently.  Resolves when the AC is off.  All AC is new and cold.  The AC noise must have began about the same time as the oil pressure.



Vibration is a characteristic of the ancient design of that stock piston-type compressor. One big reason I changed to a rotary compressor was, the shaking at low speeds was making Judy car-sick. That compressor is essentially a single-cylinder engine with the cylinder laid down & pointing at the right side, and it seems not to be very well balanced so it shakes like an old 1-cylinder motorcycle engine. Change to a Sankyo rotary and you'll lose 20 lbs of wt, the shaking and groaning will disappear and cooling will be even better than before. The vendors (and Sankyo themselves) sell a simple adapter to bolt into the stock Pantera bracket. Good luck- J Deryke








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