[DeTomaso] Clutch Master Cylinder and Shackle

ProvaMo.com Pantera007 at sbcglobal.net
Mon Jun 9 19:29:11 EDT 2008


It is just that I prefer to give credit where I can.  

So if anyone recognizes "your" photo let me know!

I had two like this, and this was the better one.  It was stashed in a misc
folder for a while.


Chuck,
     I think I may have sent that picture along in the past,  but I think 
the picture originally came from Goran?

Art


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ProvaMo.com" <Pantera007 at sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Art Stephens'" <artstephens at charter.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Clutch Master Cylinder and Shackle


> There is a photo of this access hole at:
>
> http://www.provamo.com/Members/TechInfo/ClutchMasterSlave.asp
>
> Art, was this your photo?
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] 
> On
> Behalf Of Art Stephens
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 3:48 PM
> To: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Clutch Master Cylinder and Shackle
>
> Dan,
>     Using a hole saw to make an access hole in the passenger side of the
> pedal box,  makes clutch master linkage work much easier.  I made mine
> either 2 or 2.25 inches,  if I was to do it again,  I would make it 2.5"
>
> Art
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Daniel C Jones To: detomaso at realbig.com List-Subscribe:"
>
<daniel.c.jones2 at gmail.comhttp://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso>
> ;
> "Sender: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com"
> <mailto:detomaso-request at list.realbig.com?subject=subscribe>
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 9:18 AM
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Clutch Master Cylinder and Shackle
>
>
>>I had finished setting timing and installing the wide-band O2 last night
>>and
>> wanted to take the Pantera for a drive to get some baseline air-fuel
>> mixture
>> readings.  I'd made it to the interstate when the clutch got very stiff 
>> at
>> the top of it's travel (engaged, foot off the pedal).  I gave it a strong
>> push
>> and suddenly I had no pedal.  I was maybe 20 miles from home with a
>> bunch of lights and stop signs along the way.  30 years ago when I was
>> learning to drive, my dad had the foresight to not only teach me how to
>> drive a manual transmission but also how to shift without using clutch.
>> That came in handy last night.  I managed to make it home only once 
>> having
>> to start the car in gear at a light.  They've started to install walk/no
>> walk
>> lights with timers that count down to when the lights change which was
>> nice
>> for timing the lights.
>>
>> When I got it home, I crawled under the dash and found out what went
>> wrong.
>> The previous owner had installed a CNC clutch master.  It had a fair bit
>> of
>> free play before any resistance was felt and I found out why.  It appears
>> the shackle was only threaded one or two turns (threading it all the way
>> down would have taken up the free play) and it stripped out.
>>
>> Several questions:
>>
>> 1. Is the CNC clutch master metric or SAE?  It appears the fitting on
>>    the hydraulic line was replaced so I wonder if that was to convert
>>    from metric to SAE and a second 90 degree fitting added.  If the
>> fitting
>>    on the CNC is SAE, then is the stud also SAE?  Perhaps a thread
>>    mis-match was why the shackle was only retained by a thread?  If I
>>    re-flare the line to install an original clutch master, what
>> fitting do I need
>>    and what is the flare angle?
>>
>> 2. What is the thread size of the shackle (would be the same as the
>>    stud on the back of the original clutch master)?  I can thread a
>>    7x100 metric bolt several turns but the threads in the shackle
>>    appear more coarse.  Perhaps the previous owner ran an SAE tap
>>    through the shackle?
>>
>> Getting the clevis back in looks like it's going to be treat.
>> Does anything keep the stud from rotating on the clutch master
>> (maybe just friction from the piston)?
>>
>> Dan Jones
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