[DeTomaso] Power Mirrors, and Gas Tank Door Control (very long)
Christopher Kimball
chrisvkimball at msn.com
Wed Jul 23 11:05:38 EDT 2008
Thanks for the positive comments. Here is the info you requested.
There a a couple of crude pictures of part of the process of the gill gas filler if you go to http://groups.msn.com/DeTomasoPantera/shoebox.msnw?Page=4 and I'll try to add some better ones, soon.
The mirrors were off a 300ZX and required quite the mods to get them at the right angle on the car.
Here is a description of the process for both:
THE SIDE-ACCESS GAS FILL PROJECT:As
anyone who has owned an early Pantera knows, the Italians who designed
the car placed attributes such as beauty and speed at the top of their
priority list while barely considering such trivialities as
practicality. One only needs to attempt filling the gas tank to
discover this, since the stock arrangement requires the opening of the
rear deck lid to access the gas cap! My car had a slightly curved pipe
which angled somewhat toward the rear of the car. I have heard that
item was probably an after-market addition, since the early cars left
the factory with nothing but a stubby, straight pipe requiring nothing
short of contortions to access. Nevertheless, fill-ups were still
inconvenient and I knew there had to be a way to improve things.For
the life of me, I couldn't figure out why the gas inlet wasn't
accessible from the driver's side of the car. Indeed, there is a
black, fluted "gill" at almost the exact height of the gas inlet pipe,
and that would have been the logical place to locate the gas cap.
Later Panteras did have a round access door cut into said gill, but
I didn't know that at the time.I decided
since the gas tank was out anyway, the first project I'd tackle on my
own would be to facilitate more convenient gas station visits.I
did some research and found the gill in question was attached to the
car body with nuts tightened on four threaded rods attached to the
gill. With no engine or gas tank in the car, and with the curved,
metal engine-covers removed, it was relatively easy to feel around and
find the nuts. I removed them, and the gill came off easily.
Underneath was sheet metal, and behind that was another layer of sheet
metal on the engine-bay side. The curved pipe I mentioned earlier is
attached to the top of the gas tank with four bolts, equidistant around
the flanged base of the pipe. I reasoned that if the pipe were rotated
90 degrees and the appropriate holes were cut in the body, it should be
in just about the right position to line up with the gill area. Since
I figured the pipe could be adjusted easier than the gill's position,
and since I knew if I cut a hole and it didn't work the hole could be
covered by simply replacing the gill (and no one would be the wiser), I
proceeded to the hardware store and bought a 4 1/2" hole saw.I've
done some scary things in my life, but few of them compare to
approaching a beautiful, rare sports car with a hole saw mounted in a
high-powered drill. I could just imagine the sharp teeth sticking,
jumping out of place and gnawing their way across the smooth paint,
decimating the glassy finish. I measured twice, then three times and
piled on layers of duct tape for protection around the hole's future
location. With a gulp and a prayer I fired up the drill and began pushing. I
knew the Pantera was a light-weight car, but I wasn't prepared for how
quickly the hole saw cut through the first layer of thin steel.
Buoyed by my success, I kept the drill going until the increase in RPMs
signaled I had made it through the second wall and into the engine
compartment. Now all I had to do was determine how much to bend the
curved pipe to align it with the new hole. Oh yes, and I'd also have
to figure out how to hinge the gill. And how to devise some sort of
latch. And how to open it. These, I felt, were minor issues. I had,
after all, just successfully cut a hole in my prized possession!First,
to the pipe. As I examined the it, I began to realize it was made of
aluminum and probably wouldn't bend without breaking to pieces. So
much for my first brilliant idea. I then proceeded with the only
remaining option; I cut the pipe in half. I reasoned I could remove
the mid-section of the pipe and replace it with a curved rubber piece
of fuel-proof hose. Starting with loosened hose clamps, I could adjust
the height and side-to-side location of the gas-cap end of the pipe and
when correct, tighten the clamps to maintain the position. I purchased
an angled piece of fuel hose, cut it to size and it worked. By
temporarily positioning the gas tank in it's proper location and
reattaching the newly-cannibalized pipe (now protruding through the
hole I had cut) I was able to determine the correct angle and length of
the rubber hose so that the fuel cap ended up just inside the plane of
the outer sheet metal. This would give access to the gas cap and
still allow the gill to fit back in its original location.Next
I had to devise a way to transform a fixed gill into a hinged door.
This would require some time alone in a place where great car ideas are
born--I paid a visit to the local junkyard. There, I spent an
afternoon examining the mechanics of dozens of gas-cap access doors.
Some were locking, some were not. Some were square, some were round.
I had no idea there could be this much variation in such a simple
concept. Nevertheless, I determined the best approach would be to
use a spring-loaded hinge that would hold the door fully open, and then
snap shut. Since I didn't want reveal any evidence of my modification
to the casual eye, I didn't want to use any kind of exterior lock.
Instead I planned on using a remote release located in the cabin. I
hadn't figured out exactly how I would accomplish this, but I planned
on it anyway.For the hinge I used the gas
access door from a late-eighties or early-nineties Mercury Sable, or
was it a Contour? I don't remember. It didn't really matter, since
all I cared about was that the door spring was stout. I knew I'd have
to cut most, if not all of the original door from the hinge assembly
anyway. What was critical was that the hinge was attached to the car
body by screws visible when the door was opened. That was the only way
I would be able to attach the assembly to the Pantera.For
the door release, I found a Honda which contained the requisite
cable-to-the-cabin arrangement, although it incorporated two levers;
one for the gas door and one for opening the trunk. I briefly
entertained the idea of using the trunk release lever for something,
too, since it was already there (like maybe opening the trunk), but
realized if I bit off more than I could chew, I'd probably choke. I
removed the entire lever assembly, but only took the gas door cable and
latch. When I got home I simply hack-sawed the lever bracket in half
and with minor modification and some filing had a functional gas-door
release.Before a release does much good,
it's important to have a door that needs opening. So far I had a gill
with no hinge and a hinge with a door I didn't want. I again used my
trusty hack saw to cut off most of the original door, leaving only the
hinge. It had been spot welded to the door and the hinge bracket
itself wasn't the right shape to attach to anything on the gill. Using
trial and error I determined the only location on the Pantera the hinge
would fit would be the upper-right hand edge of the gill opening. The
reason for this is when the door closes, the hinge has to have an area
into which it can swing without obstruction. The gill is triangular,
and the other two sides of the triangle on the car body were too
shallow to accommodate the hinge. The disadvantage I could see was
that this meant the door would open "into the wind" as it were. If the
latch mechanism (which I hadn't yet invented) happened to fail while
traveling at high speed, the wind could catch the door and fling it
open with such force body damage could result. Another problem to
solve--some ambiguous day.The more pressing
concern at the moment was how to attach the hinge to the gill. I
examined the gill and the hinge and found if I could attach a steel bar
to the hinge bracket at just the right angle, I could drill two holes
in it which theoretically would line up with the two rear threaded
studs on the gill. With the proper spacers, I should be able to use
the original nuts to combine the two pieces into a single, moving
part. By drilling the original stud holes in the car body to a size
larger than the nuts, the gill would be able to close snugly against
the body. Theoretically. I returned to
the hardware store an bought a basic, 1/8" thick piece of galvanized
bracket, about 1"x6" or so. Since I don't own a welder, I had my
friends at Total Performance weld it to the hinge bracket after I had
used pop-rivets to hold it in the proper position. Before positioning
the piece I used trial and error again (are you noticing a theme here?)
to position the hinge on the car body so the mounting bolts that would
eventually attach the hinge/gill assembly to the car body would be
located in the best position. With the hole cut in the side of the car
it was relatively easy to try different locations for the hinge.After
the welding was done I ground and filed the hinge bracket to the most
compact size I could, just long enough to accommodate the holes needed
to accept the two rear studs on the gill. Since the studs became
larger at the point where they were attached to the gill, I had to
drill holes in my new hinge bracket large enough to slip over the
larger diameter bases of the studs. The wide part of the studs were a
little taller than the hinge bracket was thick, so just using the nuts
wouldn't work since they would have tightened down on the base of the
studs and left the hinge bracket loose. To solve this problem, I used
a couple of nylon washers as spacers which slipped over the raised
portion of the studs before I put on the nuts. Tightening down on the
nuts now compressed the nylon washers, tightened the hinge to the gill
and the gill was now almost a door! I was then able to determine
exactly where to drill the mounting holes in the car body so I could
attach the other side of the hinge to the car. I also ran a very thin
strip of weatherstripping around the inside edge of the gill to avoid
any scratching during opening and closing. I
must confess that once I had tightened all the bolts I had to forcibly
bend the hinge slightly to precisely align the gill to the body, but
after a bit of tweaking, the hinge worked great and when closed, it
looked as good as stock.Now it was time to
revisit the Honda cable. I found a convenient location in the cabin to
mount the release lever, just below the front hood latch. I drilled
holes in the Pantera to align with the holes in the bracket and mounted
it with large sheet-metal screws. Since I had removed all the old
carpet and padding, it was easy to drill another hole directly below
where I mounted the release lever. This was to feed the cable toward
the back of the car. Getting it from the cabin to the engine
compartment was not an easy task. The DeTomaso folks must have had a
side business building mazes for laboratory rats,
because the more I tried to feed the cable along the inside of the
rocker panel, the more I discovered what a labyrinth lies inside the
body of a Pantera. I had drilled a hole from the engine compartment
through the rear firewall just below where the bottom edge of the gas
tank would normally be located into what I thought was the rocker panel
area, and yet I couldn't seem to connect that hole with the cable
coming from the cabin. Finally, after using a 16" long drill bit and
drilling through what seemed an inordinate amount of layers, I made
the connection and fed the cable into the engine bay and up toward the
gas access door.The
cable terminates in a plastic sheath with an angled, plastic plunger
sticking out about 1/4". When the lever in the cabin is pulled, the
plunger retracts. When the lever is released, a spring extends the
plunger back out again. All I had to do was make a bracket to hold the
plunger assembly and have it mate with a plate with the
appropriate-sized hole into which the plunger would extend when not
retracted. I used a galvanized "L" Bracket for the plunger and
attached another, thinner one to the lower front stud on the gill
(using the original nut). I had to file the hole into which that stud
originally fit to a size large enough that the steel bracket could
extend into the body and mate with the plunger. I then determined the
correct location to mount the plunger assembly, drilled mounting holes
in the car body and mounted the plunger assembly using two bolts.
Next, I drilled a hole in the proper place in the gill's "L" bracket so
the plunger would pop into it when the gill was pushed shut. Of
course, leaving it at this would make opening the gill difficult since
the hinge was sprung in such a way as to keep the door either open or
closed. I had to find a way to get the gill to pop open slightly when
the plunger was recessed. To do this, I found a spring that began with
a small diameter and with each successive turn got significantly
bigger. I attached the spring to the gill's last unused stud so that
it had just enough "spring" to push the door out slightly when the
release lever was pulled and the plunger retracted. For cosmetic
reasons I used rubber grommets around the holes where the studs entered
the body (the square-ish one I filed to accommodate the "L" bracket was
tricky due to it's shape. I tried heating up a round grommet to melt
it into the proper shape with marginal results).Using
a semi-gloss black paint, I painted the area now exposed when the gill
was opened. I also cut a short length of rubber tubing in half and
used gas-proof silicone rubber to glue in in place directly under the
gas cap. This prevents the cap (or anything else) from falling between
the outer skin of the car and the inner wall of the engine bay. With
the gas tank in place, anything dropped there would be gone forever.
Later I covered that piece with black leather to make it look a bit
better.Finally, I purchased a small,
plastic project box from Radio Shack to cover the bracket in the
cabin. I cut it to the size necessary to cover the bracket, sawed a
groove in it so the lever could move in and out freely and covered it
with carpet. I attached it using Velcro for easy removal (and easy
installation, too).The arrangement worked
great until I put the replacement gas tank back in. Then,
inexplicably, the lever in the cabin wouldn't move. It turned out I
had inadvertently placed the gas tank on top of the cable, pinching
it. Once I loosened the gas tank's hold-down strap and re-routed the
cable so it ran freely between the gas tank and the car body, it worked
fine. Boy, was I glad I discovered that before I had the engine and
transmission back in!Recently I added a
safety cable to address my concern about the door popping open at high
speed. I crimped and soldered a cable to an eye connector (the kind
used for electrical connections) to attach to the same gill bolt that
held the spring, attached it with an additional nut and lock washer and
then used a piece of bolt at the other end. I drilled a hole through
the center of the bolt, ran the cable through it, frayed the end of the
cable once through and taped the strands around the bolt. That way the
cable wouldn't pull out. Then I wrapped the bolt in a thin layer of
foam rubber (held in place with duct tape, of course!) and pushed it
through the hole which lined up with the gill bolt. I pushed it
through lengthwise, but of course, as soon as it was through it sprung
back horizontally in relation to the car's body, and since oriented in
that position it was much longer than the hole, it stayed behind the
hole and acts as a stop for that end of the cable. When the gill is
open, the cable limits its travel. I'm afraid at high speed, if the
gill did accidentally open, the little eye connector would probably
disintegrate due to the extreme force. I hope I never have to find
out! In the meantime, the "gill door" has worked flawlessly and never
opened inadvertently. Between major
projects, I continued to make small upgrades, such as replacing the
shift boot, adding windshield wiper delay (ordered from J.C. Whitney
and mounted under the dash on the far left-hand side), replacing all
the hoses, replacing sections of the rusted floorboards with new steel
and purchasing new, copper cooling tubes (which run under the car from
the radiator to the engine) and having them treated with an
anti-corrosion coating.I also purchased
several quarts of "Rust Bullet" and since the engine was still out of
the car, I painted every almost everything in sight with the stuff. In
fact, I purchased a plastic lawn sprayer and used that to spray Rust
Bullet into all the nooks and crannies of the frame as well. POWER MIRRORS:When I purchased my Pantera,
it came with a pair of black rear-view mirrors, which, although sporty,
didn't look period and weren't powered. Panteras didn't arrive in
America equipped with outside mirrors, so most had mirrors added at the
dealerships with whatever happened to be lying around. There have been
reports of "stock" Panteras sporting Ford LTD mirrors, or worse.
Whatever my car had in the way of mirrors when it left the showroom
obviously had been replaced with more suitable fare, but I wanted power
mirrors and knew I could find a pair more to my liking. I just didn't
know where to look. I started by perusing
cataloges and the Internet, but couldn't find anything desirable
within my price range. So it was back to the junkyard, this time
accompanied by my two sons, David and Donny, 14 and 12 years of age at
the time. After considering dozens of mirrors on an equal number of
the sad, derelict remnants of once shiny prized possessions proudly
parked in someone's garage, we decided the mirrors found on a 1980's
280 ZX would look good on the Pantera. The three of us worked to
remove the door panels, unbolt the mirrors, unplug the wiring
connectors and remove the switches from the console. An hour or so and
$90.00 later we headed home with a cardboard box containing the start
of my newest project.The first job was to
remove the existing mirrors, which proved simple enough. They were
held in place by two sheet metal screws and silicone rubber. I had to
use my fingernail to gently remove the remnants of the silicone rubber
and was then left with two small holes in the top of each door. After
removing the Pantera's door panels, it became obvious the Datsun's
mirrors wouldn't simply bolt into place with their existing mounting
hardware. The area inside the door where access would be needed was
completely blocked by the electric window motor and gear assembly. I
certainly didn't want to have exposed sheet metal screws on the base of
my new mirrors, so improvisation was again needed. At the base of the
widow motor assembly there was a bracket that had a horizontal flange
protruding forward an inch or so. By replacing each new mirror's
mounting bolt with one long enough to extend to that flange, through
which I'd have to drill a corresponding hole, I might be able to attach
the mirrors in the desired location. I removed the original, short
bolts from the mirrors and took them to the hardware store for
reference. Bolts of sufficient length were not available, so I was
forced to purchase threaded rods and matching nuts. It was necessary
to thread one nut on the end of a rod, then grind it down to make it
thin enough to fit within the mirror's hardware, but once that was
accomplished, I had a mirror with a really long mounting bolt that
would reach to the flange. By carefully
using my cordless drill, I was able to create a hole in the flange of
each door's bracket to accept the threaded rod. The scary part came
next: I had to drill a relatively large hole right in the top of each
door of my new Pantera! I tapped a starting point with a punch, held
my breath and started drilling. Fortunately, the first layer of steel
cooperated with the drill bit and the hole appeared with no problems.
As usual, however, there was another layer or two of steel angled
inside the door. It was too late to turn back now, so I just kept
drilling until I could slide the rod through the top of the door all
the way through the hole in the flange. One advantage to the light
steel used in making these cars is that drill bits don't necessarily
have to be extraordinarily sharp to quickly make a hole.At
this point it became obvious the angle of the mirrors' bases was wrong
for the top of the Pantera's doors, so I had to grind the bottom of
each base until the angle was correct. This changed the size, so the
plastic flange no longer fit (the new mirrors had a flat rubber grommet
which rested on the door surface followed by a plastic flange into
which the metal base of the mirror fit). Using scissors, I cut the
rubber grommet to the correct size and simply placed the metal mirror
base directly on the rubber grommet, discarding the plastic flanges. I
also drilled a second hole through which the wiring could be run.In
retrospect, I should have tested the angle of the reflective glass as I
ground down the mirrors' bases because after final installation I found
the mirror's angle wasn't adjustable to where it needed to be. I was
forced to place a spacer inside the mirror housing on the driver's side
to move the glass out a bit. Periodically checking that as I was
grinding the bases would have alleviated that problem.Since
the mirrors were apart, I gave the housings to a guy who offered to
paint them for me for a good price (more about this guy later). After
weeks of waiting, I finally got them back, painted the same color as
the car (good) but with a few foreign substances mixed in with the
paint (bad). Using more silicone rubber (for extra stabilization) and
the long threaded rods, I attached the mirrors to the car doors. The
wires were run alongside the stock courtesy light/electric window wires
from the door, through the door jamb and up under the dash, then down
through the console. Despite the less-than-perfect paint job, the
mirrors looked great! Now, to the wiring.I
planned on mounting the control switches on the console, just ahead of
the lighter. I planned on tapping into the lighter's power wire to
drive the mirror motors. The first problem was I had no wiring
diagram, and (of course) the wires coming from the mirrors had
different color coding than the wires from the switches. I would need
to determine which wires connected where, but since there were only
four wires from each unit, how hard could it be? With a couple of
lucky guesses I had the first mirror hooked up and working in just a
few minutes. The second mirror, however, didn't seem to work properly,
no matter what configuration I tried. Finally, in desperation, I did
what I should have done from the start; I wrote down all 16 possible
combinations, and with the help of my German exchange student, tested
each one. Oddly enough, none worked! This had gone from irritating to
downright frustrating, so I did the only thing left to do--I
disassembled the switch. Inside I found the problem. Several of the
small, copper "tracks' that made the various connections as the switch
was moved were broken. Had I thought to inspect the switches first I
could have saved hours of fruitless work. I returned to the junkyard
and found a replacement switch (for which I was charged another $10)
and soon both mirrors were working fine.I drilled the requisite holes in the console, mounted the switches and this project was finally completed.
There you have it!
Chris
From: cdifani at pacbell.net
To: chrisvkimball at msn.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Power Mirrors, and Gas Tank Door Control
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 01:25:48 -0700
Chris:
You're right, that fuel fill door sounds good. What
and how did you do it?
And then, looking thru your list, the power mirrors
look interesting, and what did you do for the dome light? My dome light is
pretty dim, and I've decided to do something... just not what... so the LED
conversion looks like a good idea.
As to the rest of your tweaks, good job! I've got 7
speakers connected to a JVC head unit with integrated Bluetooth "hands
free" cell phone system, and integrated rear view camera (the supercharger
blocks the rear view mirror too much). I've also fabricated a rear decklid
remote solenoid release, and then used DEI parts to create a remote window
control along with the "one touch" up or down window movement.
I've got an embedded Pentium 4 mini-ITX computer
with an 80 gig drive, so that's my "in car IPOD"....
And where did
you get the cigarette lighter sized flashlight? That sounds like a great
idea.
Otherwise, I've just this night got my 5.4L SOHC
modular engine installed for the "test fit"... at LOOONG last!!
Chris
Chris Difani
'73 L #5829 "LITNNG"
The Electric Pantera
Sacramento, CA
Email: cdifani at pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Kimball" <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
To: <wkooiman at earthlink.net>; "Mad Dog
Antenucci" <teampantera at yahoo.com>;
<nckzck at yahoo.com>; "DeTomaso Forum"
<detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] NPC - Looking for a Datsun
510
>
> OK, now I can't resist!
>
> The one
modification I made to my '72 that people all seem to like is the driver's side
fuel fill. I used donor parts from a Contour and a Honda, so now I pull a
release in the cabin (the release even has the little picture of a gas pump) and
the gill pops open (the entire gill, not just a hole-shaped piece) and I can
fill the tank with ease! When done, the gill pops back into place and
looks totally stock.
>
> Other mods have been somewhat more, shall
we say, controversial?
>
> I just know certain purists will bristle
at some of what I've done (especially Mad Dawg, I'm guessing) because some feel
a Pantera should be lean and mean and ready for the races, so purists, read this
and weep!
>
> Since buying the car in December '06, here are some
of the wonderful upgrades I've performed:
>
> Wiper delay (I live
in Washington)
> Twin amplifier stereo with 9 speakers, including a
dual-voice-coil 12" subwoofer (so much for saving weight! Hey, I'm a
drummer)
> DVD player
> IPOD dock (under the ashtray door)
>
Power mirrors
> Power locks
> A CUP HOLDER!!! (I gotta have my
Starbuck's)
> Cruise Control
> The infamous fan-equipped engine
cover (which still works great and gets all sorts of Kudos at car shows--people
love it! HA)
> Three green LED light bars instead of the stock dome
light
> Another green LED light bar at the bottom of the front Valance
> Third radiator fan
> Individual LEDs to monitor power to the
fans
> A tiny, rechargeable flashlight in place of the cigarette
lighter
>
> And finally, a license plate frame that reads, "It's
not a toy, it's an investment."
>
> You see, I've always felt good
humor makes all things tolerable. Don't take things too seriously and
enjoy life to the fullest!
>
> Strangely, though, I haven't added a
delta wing or fender flares...
>
> Chris
> #3846
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 22:30:01
-0500
>> From: wkooiman at earthlink.net
>> To: chrisvkimball at msn.com;
teampantera at yahoo.com; nckzck at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] NPC - Looking for a Datsun 510
>>
>>
I laugh at Daffy Duck too. Not so much at Donald.
>>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Christopher Kimball
<chrisvkimball at msn.com>
>>
>Sent: Jul 22, 2008 1:48 AM
>> >To: Mad Dog Antenucci
<teampantera at yahoo.com>, nckzck at yahoo.com, DeTomaso Forum
<detomaso at realbig.com>
>>
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] NPC - Looking for a Datsun 510
>>
>
>> >
>> >By the way, I forgot to add that my car,
which has been the subject of much ribbing on this very forum, received the
President's Award at the huge Mustang Roundup car show in Bellevue last
Sunday. Steve Saleen was there, and although I didn't actually hear him
say it, I'm sure he said something about adding extra cooling fans to the new
supercar he's going to start building...
>> >
>> >Did I
also mention I won 2nd Place last year at the Northwest Historics car show for
the 70's and 80's division (against Lambos and Ferraris, etc)? That was
the first car show in which I ever had a car to show.
>>
>
>> >Just remember, they laughed at Galileo, too!
>>
>
>> >
>> >Chris
>> >#3846
>>
>
>> >
>> >
>> >> Date: Mon, 21 Jul
2008 23:04:56 -0700
>> >> From: teampantera at yahoo.com
>>
>> To: nckzck at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>>
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] NPC - Looking for a Datsun 510
>>
>>
>> >> Will the gay guy with the pink Datsun 510 that
has 3 cooling fans, LED lights, new water tubes, hoses and special race oil
please call Perry ASAP. ;-]>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>>
>> Perry Lindsey <nckzck at yahoo.com> wrote:
I am looking for a Datsun 510 to buy. I want a cool (I know this is up to
personal interpretation, Mad Dog!) older car to drive to work, and a 510 would
be a fun option. If you have one hiding in a corner of your garage, or know an
owner with one available, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
Perry Lindsey
>> >>
>> >>
>>
>>
>> >>
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>> >>
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>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Mad Dawg Antenucci
>> >> Team Pantera
Racing
>> >> The 1st & still the only vintage
race team in open road racing
>> >> www.teampanteraracing.com
>>
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