[DeTomaso] The case of the missing rod bearing...

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 7/18/08 11:28:11 AM, garth_rodericks at yahoo.com writes:

> What is the oil passage that I need to drill out to clear crusty oil 
> residue and were do I drill a hole to provide additional oil to the distributor 
> gear?
> 
All the vertical holes going up to the cam bearings are usually varnished up 
just below the bearing inserts, and the horizontal line going from #1 cam 
bearing to the distributor drive gear is often plugged. The bearing insert needs 
to come out for access to this one. Removing cam bearings sometimes causes 
clearance trouble fitting a new cam to new bearings. 
To increase oil to the gear mesh, drill the sealing plug in the oil gallery 
behind the cam gear. The 0.030-0.040" dia hole should be slightly slanted to 
spray on the gear mesh. Finally, get a 12" long x 3/8" dia doorspring to use as 
a roto-rooter and clear all 4 of the oil drainback holes in the cylinder 
heads. Two are straight thru and can be drilled but the other two are dog-legged 
with 2 bends, hence the spring is needed. 
Roller rockers can also be restricted by pressing a small bushing in each of 
the 16 oil holes, or by requesting restrictor pushrods that have smaller-than 
normal oil holes in them. You'll need shorter pushrods with roller tappets 
anyway. Note that drying up too much oil to the top end will fix crank bearing 
starvation but will tend to overheat the valve springs which rely on lots of oil 
for cooling. Some guys then rig spray-bars in the valve covers to spray 
cooling oil directly on the springs. Spray bars don't work well if you run a stud 
girdle, which IMHO is a good idea with stiff roller cam springs. Good luck- J 
Deryke



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