[DeTomaso] Another header question: bolts

[Charles Engles]

Dear Rich,


               Alas, the research budget for the Engine Department does not 
cover aluminum!    I am still with iron heads and can't say.

                         Warmest regards,   Chuck Engles



---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich" <hoppe1 at cox.net>
To: <MikeLDrew at aol.com>; <cengles at cox.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Another header question: bolts


> On the subject  of header bolts.    Do you do anything different for 
> aluminum heads?  Studs?
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
> To: <cengles at cox.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 4:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Another header question: bolts
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/28/08 15 07 26, cengles at cox.net writes:
>
>
>> On the topic of header bolts, does anyone have an opinion
>> about either Percy's Split Lock header bolts or the Stage 8 Locking 
>> header
>> bolts?
>>
>
> I've seen the Stage 8 bolts, and they seem pretty neat, although I think 
> they
> require a bit too much fiddling around, and of course since you need to
> tighten header bolts after the engine has been through a couple of heat 
> cycles,
> that requires a lot more work.
>
> Personally, I am advocate of ARP small-head header bolts.   These are 
> special
> bolts made with a smaller-than-normal 5/16" head (rather than the more
> conventional 3/8").   You wouldn't think that a lousy sixteenth of an inch 
> would
> make a difference, but brother, I'm here to tell you that it does.   Some 
> headers
> have the pipes exiting the flange at a slight angle, which can sometimes
> interfere with your ability to place a wrench on the bolt head.   What 
> follows is
> an agonizing ritual of turning the bolt 1/32nd of a turn at a time, 
> constantly
> having to flip the wrench to get even a slight purchase on the bolt head.
>
> These smaller heads make short work of this.   The additional clearance 
> can
> be enough to let you get a box-end wrench in there, or a socket--either 
> one
> makes a huge difference.
>
> And they are ARP quality, nothing to sneeze at there.   Once the engine 
> has
> gone through a couple of heat cycles, you'll need to go back and snug them 
> up
> again, and then they should be good to go forever.
>
> Here's a photo from the Summit website:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/8dokeh
>
> Summit doesn't specifically list these bolts as 'small head', so I was 
> only
> able to find them by first looking in my ARP bolt catalog for the part 
> number,
> then typing that number in the 'search' box on the Summit website.
>
> These bolts are available in two lengths; either .750" or 1.00".   My Euro
> GTS headers (and the headers on my other cars as well) have fairly thick 
> flanges
> so I always go for the longer bolts.
>
> They are available in either 6- or 12-point, black oxide or stainless.
>
> Part numbers:
>
> Bolt kit, 5/16" wrench, length .750
>
> Black oxide 6-point: 100-1108
> Black oxide 12-point: 100-1208
> Stainless 6-point: 400-1108
> Stainless 12-point: 400-1208
>
> Bolt kit, 5/16" wrench, length 1.000
> Black oxide, 6-point: 100-1110
> Black oxide 12-point: 100-1210
> Stainless 6-point: 400-1110
> Stainless 12-point:   400-1210
>
> Entering any of those part numbers in the 'search' box will bring them 
> right
> up on the Summit website.   Cost is $24.69 for the black oxide, 1-inch
> six-point bolts.   Plus Summit charges a flat handling charge, which I 
> believe is
> $11.95 now?
>
> I have actually found that it's cheaper to buy ARP bolts directly from the
> factory.   If you call them up and tell them what you need, they just pop 
> 'em in
> the mail to you, saving on shipping, and the retail price from them is
> usually about the same or even a bit less?
>
> Contact info can be had on the 'contact us' link on the ARP website:
> http://www.arp-bolts.com/
>
> Cheers!
>
> Mike
>
>
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