[DeTomaso] Fw: water pump

[Thomas Tornblom]

Will Demelo skrev:
> Where does one get this water pump backing plate? It has to be tig'd on?

FlowKooler has a disk that is pop-riveted on:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BRA-3875-03

It appears Summit is no longer selling these.

I installed one on my stock cast iron pump. Unfortunately it didn't 
solve my cooling problems at the time, which probably was due to a 
clogged radiator.

I'm now using a Fluidyne aluminum radiator and an Edelbrock pump, which 
has a backing plate on the cast impeller.


> Will

Thomas

> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <JDeRyke at aol.com>
> To: <bwerner at live.com>; <DeTomaso at realbig.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 3:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] water pump
> 
> 
>> In a message dated 12/22/08 5:13:56 PM, bwerner at live.com writes:
>> snip.....
>>> I have a new Weiand, I have heard that you want to put a plate on the 
>>> back
>>> of the impeller on this pump and this style of pump doesn't allow water 
>>> to
>>> be circulated through the engine, it has to go to the radiator. What is 
>>> the
>>> purpose of this design??
>>>
>> Adding a plate on the impeller back cages the water being pumped, slightly
>> increasing the efficiency of the pump since the small space between the 
>> back or
>> the impeller and the pump case then no longer allows water to leak 
>> backward.
>> The aluminum Weiand 8209 is in my estimation one of the best made. I have 
>> one
>> now 19 years old on our much-modified engine and it has had exactly one 
>> problem
>> in that time. There are two small bosses for the heater hose (bottom) and 
>> the
>> stock thermal switch (top). No one uses the thermal switch any more so 
>> this
>> is usually plugged. Over-tightening a plug -or any pipe fitting into the 
>> upper
>> boss will spilt the casting, which is made too thin. TIG-welding the split
>> corrected my mistake- be careful here. Also, the pump has no recirculation
>> passage so you can use any thermostat, not just the special one for the 
>> 351C.
>> Suggest any thermostat you choose should have bleed holes drilled to 
>> increase water
>> circulation, IMHO. The Weiands are also rebuildable if someone gets a seal
>> faiure. Welding a plate to the impeller will wreck the seal if too much 
>> heat is
>> used; I TIG'ed mine on. It made no difference in engine temperature. 
>> Matter of
>> fact, NOTHING in the entire cooling system makes any measurable difference 
>> in
>> engine temp except:
>> 1)- a bigger more efficient radiator and big shrouded fans for low speed
>> operation. I use an aluminum Fluidyne with Flexilite sucker fans. There 
>> are other
>> choices that also reportedly work but I have no experience with them.
>> 2)- completely removing the thermostat radically increases water flow thru
>> the system, and drops engine temp way-too-far- to around 120 F degrees 
>> when
>> cruising and possibly 160F during track events when high rpms and low 
>> gears are
>> used a lot. Some sort of restrictor will be needed in place of a 
>> thermostat.
>> Good luck- J Deryke
>>
>>
>>
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-- 
Real life:   Thomas Törnblom             Email:  Thomas.Tornblom at Hax.SE
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