[DeTomaso] Fw: water pump

Will Demelo wdemelo at cogeco.ca
Tue Dec 23 05:23:33 EST 2008


Where does one get this water pump backing plate? It has to be tig'd on?
Will

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <JDeRyke at aol.com>
To: <bwerner at live.com>; <DeTomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 3:03 AM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] water pump


> In a message dated 12/22/08 5:13:56 PM, bwerner at live.com writes:
> snip.....
>> I have a new Weiand, I have heard that you want to put a plate on the 
>> back
>> of the impeller on this pump and this style of pump doesn't allow water 
>> to
>> be circulated through the engine, it has to go to the radiator. What is 
>> the
>> purpose of this design??
>>
> Adding a plate on the impeller back cages the water being pumped, slightly
> increasing the efficiency of the pump since the small space between the 
> back or
> the impeller and the pump case then no longer allows water to leak 
> backward.
> The aluminum Weiand 8209 is in my estimation one of the best made. I have 
> one
> now 19 years old on our much-modified engine and it has had exactly one 
> problem
> in that time. There are two small bosses for the heater hose (bottom) and 
> the
> stock thermal switch (top). No one uses the thermal switch any more so 
> this
> is usually plugged. Over-tightening a plug -or any pipe fitting into the 
> upper
> boss will spilt the casting, which is made too thin. TIG-welding the split
> corrected my mistake- be careful here. Also, the pump has no recirculation
> passage so you can use any thermostat, not just the special one for the 
> 351C.
> Suggest any thermostat you choose should have bleed holes drilled to 
> increase water
> circulation, IMHO. The Weiands are also rebuildable if someone gets a seal
> faiure. Welding a plate to the impeller will wreck the seal if too much 
> heat is
> used; I TIG'ed mine on. It made no difference in engine temperature. 
> Matter of
> fact, NOTHING in the entire cooling system makes any measurable difference 
> in
> engine temp except:
> 1)- a bigger more efficient radiator and big shrouded fans for low speed
> operation. I use an aluminum Fluidyne with Flexilite sucker fans. There 
> are other
> choices that also reportedly work but I have no experience with them.
> 2)- completely removing the thermostat radically increases water flow thru
> the system, and drops engine temp way-too-far- to around 120 F degrees 
> when
> cruising and possibly 160F during track events when high rpms and low 
> gears are
> used a lot. Some sort of restrictor will be needed in place of a 
> thermostat.
> Good luck- J Deryke
>
>
>
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