[DeTomaso] My ZF is scaring me

[Daniel Miller]

There is a guy named Phil Camp in the San Diego Pantera group.  He took his car a couple years ago to the Vegas convention and drove it on the track.  His ZF basically blew a hole in the case and leaked out all of the fluid.  From what I understand some bolts backed out inside and then sheered off the heads apparently over time.  And also until the hole blew out the case ending his driving that day, the ZF seemed to function fine, even on the Vegas race track!! Not entirely sure if the bolt heads caused the hole in his ZF case or not.   Don't know if this is your situation.  But since it happened once, it might happen again.  Just FYI.   I don't have Phil phone number, but if you look him up in the DeTomaso registry and give him a shout.  He's a really nice guy.  And would be glad to let you know his story and what he did to fix it.  Good luck.   Dan Miller in San Diego.



----- Original Message ----
From: "JDeRyke at aol.com" <JDeRyke at aol.com>
To: marccampolieto99 at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 1:44:59 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] My ZF is scaring me

In a message dated 8/14/08 1:04:59 PM, marccampolieto99 at yahoo.com writes:

> The ring gear is safety-wired and the crack is actually in the bottom of 
> the rear case in one of those channels just behind the bolt. Any ideas?
> 
If in fact its a crack, or a pinhole in the casting that just opened up, it's 
quite fix-able.
-A- take a round-nose punch and hammer, and from under the car, peen the 
leaky area hard enough to smear aluminum around. Sometimes with small leaks in 
cast aluminum, you can displace enough metal this way to seal up leaks not under 
pressure. Be careful, though- you don't need to hit so hard that you crack the 
cases! You'll know when you're done 'cause the leak will stop.  

All other solutions require removing the ZF from the car, after draining the 
lube. Then you flip the trans upside down and carefully solvent-clean the 
problem area. Now you decide it you want to:
-B- have someone with a TIG-welder tack-weld the area, thus fixing it for 
sure.   Should take him maybe 5 minutes, after the area is solvent-cleaned.
-C- try fixing it yourself with green Lock-Tite which is a wicking-sealant 
that will penetrate cracks and set up. There are other sealents that work the 
same- again after solvent cleaning. 

But NO sealent will work unless the crack/pit is completely solvent-cleaned, 
which will not happen with the lube inside and gravity constantly pushing it 
into the problem area. Draining does NOT remove all the lube from a ZF. I've 
taken the bottom cover off and drained these things into a bucket over a 
weekend, and there's still a pint or two inside when you separate the cases. And 
consider: if you opt for the Lock-tite or other sealent and for some reason it 
doesn't work, going to option 2 will mean the welder will need to grind away all 
the areas contaminated with the sealent, which will increase his repair time, 
and expense.   I've used A, B and C with success depending on how big the 
leaky area was. Good luck- J Deryke


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