[DeTomaso] Clutch withdrawal shaft (Re: Today... in Asa Jay'sGarage)

[John Taphorn]

Asa

I use Quella, although any that carry ZF parts will have them.  Also, the 
bearings and seals are not unique to the ZF and are probably available from 
your local bearing house.

JT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Asa Jay Laughton" <asajay at asajay.com>
To: <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 4:39 PM
Subject: [DeTomaso] Clutch withdrawal shaft (Re: Today... in Asa 
Jay'sGarage)


> John,  good points, thank you, I'll head down and look at this right now.
>
> So where did you get the new bearings and seals that fit it all?
>
> Asa Jay
>
> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>
> & Shelley Marie
> Spokane, WA
>
> 1973 Pantera L 5533
> [ASASCAT]
>
> ******************************
> http://www.asajay.com
> http://www.351c.info
>
>
>
>
> John Taphorn wrote:
>> Asa
>>
>> While you have the ZF out, check the slop in the clutch withdrawal
>> shaft (1001).  The shaft rides on two sets of needle bearings (1003).
>> Previouse ZF washings could have introduced water to these bearings
>> and they may be compromised.
>>
>> When these bearings are bad, the initial action of the slave cylinder
>> on the bellcrank is to push the clutch withdrawal shaft back rather
>> than rotate it to actuate the throwout bearing loosing precious
>> clearance.
>>
>> You can tell if they are bad by pushing the shaft back and forth to
>> see how much it rocks in the bearing.  Most used ZFs that I have seen
>> out of the car suffer this malady. There is usually collateral damage
>> on the clutch withdrawal shaft from the bearings. Should you believe
>> that your needle bearings are still good, try to get some lubrication
>> on them.  Chances are that when you hosed down the interior of the
>> bellhosing, you got them good and wet.  There are no seals protecting
>> them from the inside.
>>
>> When rebuilding ZFs, I now use three seals, one on the exterior and
>> two on the interior to protect the needle bearings.  The forth isn't
>> necessary as it is protected by the cover. The bearings and seals are
>> cheap.
>>
>> Second, extracting the differential is no small task.  A special
>> puller is necesary to pull the side conical bearings first and this
>> tool will not be found anywhere but in the ZF tool kit.  The
>> alternative approach is to remove the 5mm allen head bolts that hold
>> the differential together.  With these bolts removed the diff can be
>> separated and taken out with the side bearings in place.  The problem
>> here is the allen bolts have shallow orifaces for the 5mm allen bit
>> and they round very easily as the are generally very tight.  Then, you
>> are left drilling them out.  I am embarrassed to admit, I may have
>> gotten those boogers our of only one ZF without having to drill at
>> least one.  A real PITA.
>>
>> So, change the bolts with the diff in the ZF
>>
>> Good luck
>> JT
>>
>>
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