[DeTomaso] starter motor studs

SEL edlebby at yahoo.com
Thu Apr 3 20:10:00 EDT 2008


Tom - thanks for the notes and guidance - mission accomplished - the new starter, as many reported, makes a world of difference - and at $50, how can you go wrong? - kept the original cables (cleaned connections) but instead of positive from battery to one side of relay and positve to starter from the other side they both go to the side the battery positve had been - then a new 14g or so wire goes from another terminal on the starter selenoid to the side of the relay where the relay to starter cable had been - not exactly sure what this change accomplishes - i am guessing it runs current through in a way that spins the motor better - either way, it does indeed make it whine like a turbo jet engine and cranks the engine with ease - also sprang for an optima yellow battery from sam's club as it has the same low height as the old sears battery.

one thing i still notice, and this brings me to something jack said about an auxiliary pump for the fuel - cold starts are now the problem - i can start the car only with no prepumping the pedal and feeding guess at just the right time after first starting to crank - or after a few trys with the pedal floored - seems like gas is not getting into the carb - but i thought if you pump the pedal, that is what you are doing? - any thoughts? - thanks! stephen


----- Original Message ----
From: Tom Cabanski <tcabanski at tencom.com>
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 1:59:02 PM
Subject: [DeTomaso] starter motor studs

Stephen,
I just screwed them out & took them to a hardware store and found the
correct metric size in a bolt.
I just bolted the new starter right into place.
Not sure why they went with that set up were they used a two threaded
shaft with english threads on one side & metric for the end. 
A simple metric bolt works just fine. You may have to enlarge the holes
on the mini-starter a bit so things line up properly.
Tom

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