[DeTomaso] window installation, 1974 L
Will Kooiman
wkooiman at earthlink.net
Sat Sep 29 14:13:09 EDT 2007
What about the stainless trim on the reinstall? Don't they need to install
the trim in the rubber gasket, and then install the glass, gasket, and trim
all at once?
My understanding was that once the window and gasket is installed, it is
very difficult to insert the stainless trim.
That's a question, not a statement.
-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of JDeRyke at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 12:46 PM
To: msjaan at sbcglobal.net; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] window installation, 1974 L
In a message dated 9/29/07 9:10:02 AM, msjaan at sbcglobal.net writes:
> I'm about to have my window installed by a local glass shop. Is there
> anything they/I need to know for this to go smoothly and without it
breaking or
> rusting later?
>
First, don't let them cut the gasket- the cost of a new one is now over
$250.
A pro glass guy once removed mine in 10 seconds by putting a heavy blanket
on
the hood, setting in the passenger seat and kicking the windshield out! Hey,
if you don't plan on using it, the old glass is worthless. Doing it this way
does not require removing the chrome trim, which is very easy to twist and
very
difficult to replace. Second, the window channel in the body at the bottom
is
often rusted and pitted and likely can be repaired by cleaning & carefully
brazing without stripping the dash. Finally, have them FULLY silicone the
gasket
to the body all across the bottom, up the sides and at least a foot across
the top on each side, or the odds are your new glass will leak. Windshield
silicone is the type that does NOT smell like vinegar when the cap is
removed;
hardware-store silicone does and will corrode the steel body worse than the
water
you're trying to keep out! Ours has been out twice using these methods,
still
uses the original gasket and does not leak. Good luck- J DeRyke
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