[DeTomaso] Hazard Warning Switch Troubleshooting

[wkooiman at earthlink.net]

I bought a brand new switch from Johnny Woods.  It is probably the Alfa switch.  It looks very similar to the DeTomaso switch.

It has all the same wires with the same markings.  They're in different places, but if you mark them as you remove them, you can put them on the new switch in the proper place.

My emergency flasher switch works great now.  It wouldn't win a concours.  So what?  It works, and it looks right.

-----Original Message-----
>From: JDeRyke at aol.com
>Sent: Nov 18, 2007 1:33 AM
>To: cdifani at pacbell.net, detomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Hazard Warning Switch Troubleshooting
>
>In a message dated 11/17/07 2:29:14 PM, cdifani at pacbell.net writes:
>
>> This isn't the usual problem that uses the broken toothpick solution, but 
>> something inside the darn thing. Essentially while 12VDC goes in on the 
>> correct wire, 12VDC doesn't come out on the correct wire. The illumination portion 
>> of the switch works, and it mechanically operates in and out with the correct 
>> detents. But electrically there's some problems....
>> 
>> So, any ideas, references, or suggestions?
>> 
>> 
>Sure. Take the thing out and disassemble it by unbending the connecting tabs 
>in back. Inside you'll find a sort of cylindrical cam with a follower that 
>goes up, down and sideways while moving along a groove in the body. Each position 
>connects a pair (or more) of contacts. What often happens is, the plastic 
>body warps with time (there's a spring inside), allowing   the cam follower to 
>slip out of its groove. Things then get connected or disconnected that normally 
>don't. 
>Two known fixs: one involves adding a hose clamp around the body to squeeze 
>it back into its OEM shape. This of course depends on the parts being 
>more-or-less aligned before you start squeezing. The other (that I used) involves 
>taking the thing apart and shimming the follower to again stay in its groove. I 
>used a strip off a Gary Hall business card, making it close-to-factory fix!
>A third way might be to buy a very similar but cheaper '70-74 Alfa Romeo 
>switch, and slowly figure out what inputs and outputs might match a Pantera 
>switch. No one has yet tried this, I don't believe. Note that Factory schematic 
>color codes probably won't match your car, so be sure to draw a map for yourself 
>before removing the switch. All this's right down your alley, Chris! Good luck- 
>J DeRyke
>
>
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