[DeTomaso] Fw: Transaxle removal

David & Marilyn Bell davidabell at worldnet.att.net
Fri May 25 23:50:35 EDT 2007


Maybe you just didn't mention it - but the two starter bolts also have to be
removed as they go through the splash shield, pinching it between the
starter housing and the bellhousing.  The bellhousing can't come free until
the splash shield is completely disconnected.  Other than that, sometimes
the two big registration pegs lightly corrode inside the aluminum
bellhousing making it tough to separate it from the block.

A couple of straps, one immediately in front of and behind the stub axles,
should balance the bellhousing and ZF fairly well.


Dave Bell

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On
Behalf Of Douglas Kelm
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 10:20 PM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] Fw: Transaxle removal


> HELP! I need some prompt and accurate information. How many bolts hold the
> bellhousing to the engine block, NOT counting the long bolt that also
> secures the clutch slave. So far I count two (2) at the top, two (2) one
the
> left side, one (1) on the right side above the starter and three (3)
smaller
> ones (two at the bottom, one on the left side) securing the lower sheet
> metal filler to the bellhousing  Am I missing any? I just want to make
sure
> before I get out the BFH and prybars! (Just kidding :<)) The transaxle
does
> not want to break loose. Also, what is the approximate balance point for
> lifting the trans and bellhousing? Is it about at the axle centerline or
> slightly ahead or behind it (and how far)? All the other disconnections
have
> been made and fortunately I have socket head allen bolts instead of studs
> holding the mounts to the trans sides. Thanks in advance for any and all
> advise.
>
> Doug Kelm
>
> Yellow '72 Pre-L #2886
>

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