[DeTomaso] Deck Lid thingee needed

[Gray Gregory]

Mine needs adjustment, so next time you're down here remind me of your
willingness (stupid-ness) to do this. :>)

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]
On Behalf Of MikeLDrew at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 2:29 PM
To: michaelsavga at gmail.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Deck Lid thingee needed


In a message dated 5/12/07 16:04:24, michaelsavga at gmail.com writes:

<< Noticed at idle that my deck lid was shaking, turns out the metal
loop
thingee that attaches to the underside of the deck lid that is grabbed
by
the latch has cracked on one side and had about a 1/8" gap between the
remaining pieces.
This piece attaches with two 10mm bolts to embedded bolts in the deck
lid.
Mine also had a thin metal shim behind it.
looks like the thickness of about a 16 penny nail.

Anybody got one or know where I can get one, rather have one piece than
welded piece showing. >>

>>>There were three styles of decklid thingee used.  The first was a
metal 
loop, which was welded to the inside of the decklid.  The second was a
simple 
bar, which was bolted (actually, 'nutted' since it slid over a pair of
studs and 
was held with nuts), and the third and final solution was a stamped
steel 
piece that incorporated not only a catch, but also 'ears' which surround
the 
latch on the body, and prevent side-to-side movement of the decklid.

On the car that Chris Difani and I worked on, it was equipped with the 
first-style latch, so we had to drill holes where the studs are located
on the later 
cars (and by later I mean late 1971 and on), then install Nutserts,
studs 
with Loc-tite, and then bolt the new catch on.  But if your catch bolts
in place, 
you should be in great shape.

Most of the vendors sell the later-style catch for about $25; I think
Hall 
had it on sale for $15 awhile ago.  It's a direct replacement and a
great 
improvement over what went before.  The latch on the body can be shimmed
in and out, 
and has the latitude to move up and down and side to side.  Proper
adjustment 
should require slight downward pressure on the decklid with one hand (on
the 
edge please, no "oil-canning" of the sheetmetal) while the button is
depressed 
with the other to release it.  This ensures a good seal as the closed
decklid 
slightly compresses the rubber seal.

The easiest way to ensure proper adjustment is to find somebody small
(or in 
my case, simply stupid) to crawl into the engine bay atop the gearbox,
while 
somebody outside closes the decklid.  The guy inside (bring a
flashlight) can 
move the latch around and then tighten the two mounting nuts with a 10mm
wrench.

Mike<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> See what's
free at 
http://www.aol.com.</HTML>
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