[DeTomaso] Deck Lid thingee needed

Michael Shortt michaelsavga at gmail.com
Sun May 13 18:06:32 EDT 2007


I will post this R & R on my web site after it's done.




On 5/13/07, Tomas Gunnarsson <guson at home.se> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> If you have any pics from this operation I'd like to see them out of
> curiosity. I recently built my own latch from scratch to get the third
> generation benefits. I was replacing something that looked like it was built
> from the remains of a first generation latch and some scrap metal. I was
> surprised to find my decklid studs located in a way that a third generation
> latch wouldn't bolt in. Your story may explain why my lid looks like it
> does.
>
> Tomas
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
> To: <michaelsavga at gmail.com>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Sent: den 13 maj 2007 21:28
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Deck Lid thingee needed
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 5/12/07 16:04:24, michaelsavga at gmail.com writes:
> >
> > << Noticed at idle that my deck lid was shaking, turns out the metal
> loop
> > thingee that attaches to the underside of the deck lid that is grabbed
> by
> > the latch has cracked on one side and had about a 1/8" gap between the
> > remaining pieces.
> > This piece attaches with two 10mm bolts to embedded bolts in the deck
> lid.
> > Mine also had a thin metal shim behind it.
> > looks like the thickness of about a 16 penny nail.
> >
> > Anybody got one or know where I can get one, rather have one piece than
> > welded piece showing. >>
> >
> > >>>There were three styles of decklid thingee used.  The first was a
> metal
> > loop, which was welded to the inside of the decklid.  The second was a
> simple
> > bar, which was bolted (actually, 'nutted' since it slid over a pair of
> studs and
> > was held with nuts), and the third and final solution was a stamped
> steel
> > piece that incorporated not only a catch, but also 'ears' which surround
> the
> > latch on the body, and prevent side-to-side movement of the decklid.
> >
> > On the car that Chris Difani and I worked on, it was equipped with the
> > first-style latch, so we had to drill holes where the studs are located
> on the later
> > cars (and by later I mean late 1971 and on), then install Nutserts,
> studs
> > with Loc-tite, and then bolt the new catch on.  But if your catch bolts
> in place,
> > you should be in great shape.
> >
> > Most of the vendors sell the later-style catch for about $25; I think
> Hall
> > had it on sale for $15 awhile ago.  It's a direct replacement and a
> great
> > improvement over what went before.  The latch on the body can be shimmed
> in and out,
> > and has the latitude to move up and down and side to side.  Proper
> adjustment
> > should require slight downward pressure on the decklid with one hand (on
> the
> > edge please, no "oil-canning" of the sheetmetal) while the button is
> depressed
> > with the other to release it.  This ensures a good seal as the closed
> decklid
> > slightly compresses the rubber seal.
> >
> > The easiest way to ensure proper adjustment is to find somebody small
> (or in
> > my case, simply stupid) to crawl into the engine bay atop the gearbox,
> while
> > somebody outside closes the decklid.  The guy inside (bring a
> flashlight) can
> > move the latch around and then tighten the two mounting nuts with a 10mm
> wrench.
> >
> > Mike<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> See what's
> free at
> > http://www.aol.com.</HTML>
> > _______________________________________________
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>



-- 
Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia


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