[DeTomaso] Deck Lid thingee needed

[Tomas Gunnarsson]

Mike,

If you have any pics from this operation I'd like to see them out of curiosity. I recently built my own latch from scratch to get the third generation benefits. I was replacing something that looked like it was built from the remains of a first generation latch and some scrap metal. I was surprised to find my decklid studs located in a way that a third generation latch wouldn't bolt in. Your story may explain why my lid looks like it does.

Tomas

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
To: <michaelsavga at gmail.com>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: den 13 maj 2007 21:28
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Deck Lid thingee needed


> 
> In a message dated 5/12/07 16:04:24, michaelsavga at gmail.com writes:
> 
> << Noticed at idle that my deck lid was shaking, turns out the metal loop
> thingee that attaches to the underside of the deck lid that is grabbed by
> the latch has cracked on one side and had about a 1/8" gap between the
> remaining pieces.
> This piece attaches with two 10mm bolts to embedded bolts in the deck lid.
> Mine also had a thin metal shim behind it.
> looks like the thickness of about a 16 penny nail.
> 
> Anybody got one or know where I can get one, rather have one piece than
> welded piece showing. >>
> 
> >>>There were three styles of decklid thingee used.  The first was a metal 
> loop, which was welded to the inside of the decklid.  The second was a simple 
> bar, which was bolted (actually, 'nutted' since it slid over a pair of studs and 
> was held with nuts), and the third and final solution was a stamped steel 
> piece that incorporated not only a catch, but also 'ears' which surround the 
> latch on the body, and prevent side-to-side movement of the decklid.
> 
> On the car that Chris Difani and I worked on, it was equipped with the 
> first-style latch, so we had to drill holes where the studs are located on the later 
> cars (and by later I mean late 1971 and on), then install Nutserts, studs 
> with Loc-tite, and then bolt the new catch on.  But if your catch bolts in place, 
> you should be in great shape.
> 
> Most of the vendors sell the later-style catch for about $25; I think Hall 
> had it on sale for $15 awhile ago.  It's a direct replacement and a great 
> improvement over what went before.  The latch on the body can be shimmed in and out, 
> and has the latitude to move up and down and side to side.  Proper adjustment 
> should require slight downward pressure on the decklid with one hand (on the 
> edge please, no "oil-canning" of the sheetmetal) while the button is depressed 
> with the other to release it.  This ensures a good seal as the closed decklid 
> slightly compresses the rubber seal.
> 
> The easiest way to ensure proper adjustment is to find somebody small (or in 
> my case, simply stupid) to crawl into the engine bay atop the gearbox, while 
> somebody outside closes the decklid.  The guy inside (bring a flashlight) can 
> move the latch around and then tighten the two mounting nuts with a 10mm wrench.
> 
> Mike<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> See what's free at 
> http://www.aol.com.</HTML>
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