[DeTomaso] Seam welding and windshield fillers
JDeRyke at aol.com
JDeRyke at aol.com
Thu May 3 14:38:58 EDT 2007
Strip the whole car. Welding 'chicken-foot' doublers around the lower ends of
the windshield posts will force the removal of the windshield, and while it's
out, clean out the gasket groove just in front of the dash. Any rust holes or
deep pits should be welded or brazed up, so the dash will need to come out.
I've seen a few cars where the upper windshield posts were also cracked or
badly rusted, forcing at least partial removal of the headliner. So I'd strip the
interior.
In back, the leading edge of the inner rear fenders continue clear up into
the water-drain groove and are suspiciously close to the point where major paint
cracking often occurs in unbraced cars. If I was seam-welding a Pantera, I
would completely seam- or edge-weld this inner fender panel (both sides) clear
down to the lower subframe extensions, as well as completely around the
'horse-shoe' panel that mounts the upper rear a-arms, and across the bottom of the
subframe below the halfshaft holes. IMHO, it would take a true pro-welder to
effectively do this with the engine and gas tank in the car. In our car, I also
found numerous popped or never-completed spot welds holding the rear
crossmember below the engine. This made cutting it out easier (for a removeable
crossmember), but probably contributed to a loose rear suspension when stock.
This is really a massive job but the reward when properly completed will be
a Pantera that feels as stiff as a pro-built race car and will likely never
need a heavy chassis stiffening system, only a good upper bay-brace. Good luck-
J DeRyke<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> See what's free
at http://www.aol.com.</HTML>
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