[DeTomaso] Electical questions--update
Christopher Kimball
chrisvkimball at msn.com
Wed May 2 03:35:05 EDT 2007
Well, it's 12:15 AM and I've been in the garage since 6:00 (can any of you
relate?)
The good news is thanks to all of the help I received via emails from so
many of you, I decided to once again tackle an area where no man has gone
before. Well, at least where this man has never gone before! All of the
items listed below were suggestions from those of you on the list serve.
I took the ammeter out of the dash again and double checked my connections
(I totally cleaned them after the partial meltdown). I then disconnected
the ammeter side and measured the resistance across the ammeter terminals.
I reasoned if the impedance was zero, there should be no heat problem with
current going through it. Fortunately, the reading was zero resistance, so
that was a good sign.
I next disconnected the one-wire from the alternator and measured the
resistance from the alternator end to the ammeter end, hoping for infinite
resistance, indicating a clear, short-free lead. I was dismayed that the
ohmmeter went to zero, indicating what I perceived to be a dead short. Only
after unwrapping taped wires, uninstalling my carefully installed console
kick-panels, including one with a 6X9 speaker wedged in it, disconnecting
all the accessories I had hooked up and spending about an hour studying the
wiring diagram Gary Herrig gave me did I suddenly realize that since the
lead I was testing was the load lead, ANY item that normally needed power
would cause resistance to show on the meter. Suddenly I realized I'd better
close both the doors (courtesy lights), check to make sure the wipers, radio
and other accessories were turned off, and last but not least, take my keys
out of the ignition (key warning buzzer). To my delight, at that point the
alternator lead (still disconnected from the alternator) read a very
pleasing infinity. No short!
I also took the opportunity to run two 12 gauge wires from the alternator
terminal on the ammeter to the front trunk where I moved all the accessories
(stereo amp, fan relays, etc.) to a new terminal I mounted next to the
battery's positive terminal. In case I want to add any other accessories, I
now have an easy access to the "load" side of the ammeter.
No all I have to do is put everything back together...
The big decision I have to make now is whether or not to take the effort to
remove the alternator to have it checked. Since I moved all the accessories
to the correct hookup location and since I cleaned the ammeter terminals, I
think what I might do is try to finish the cam break in by leaving the
alternator wire disconnected and just using battery power (I'm trickle
charging the battery overnight tonight) and then I can hook up the
alternator again and see what happens during idling, etc. I still don't
know if I should just run the engine for the 10 remaining minutes of break
in (I already ran it for 3 minutes and then again for ten minutes) or if I
need to start all over and run the engine for a full twenty minute,
uninterrupted period.
I hope the cooling questions I had will be resolved now since I found out
the pressure cap on the coolant bottle was cracked around the inside and not
holding pressure. I bought a new cap and it is installed now. Plus I've
burped the system more than I burped my first son, so there shouldn't be any
more air in the system.
I have to tell you I never would have had any idea where to start with all
this if it hadn't been for the great advice I received from so many of you.
The articles forwarded to me, emails and phone calls gave me the confidence
to try things I never would have imagined I would ever attempt on my own;
but then, I guess as a Pantera owner one never really is on one's own! I
really appreciate all the help; I only hope sometime I can return the favor.
Sincerely,
Chris
PS: It's now 12:35; darn, I have to go to the office tomorrow!
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