[DeTomaso] Hi Beam Flash

[Jim Cain]

Thanks Bill,
Thank you for the instructions. I did the test and the switch failed. I can see the contacts for the hi beam flash (thanks for the picture) but they must be corroded or something. Anyway, I will take you up on your offer and will ship it to you tomorrow. Other than the flashing everything works.
Thanks again,
Jim

----- Original Message ----
From: "SOBill at aol.com" <SOBill at aol.com>
To: jwcinvestment at yahoo.com
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 1:30:07 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Hi Beam Flash



 

Jim,

 

Since you have the witch out, the headlamp wiring at the connector 
is as follows:

 

Blue = headlamp power into switch

Blue/White = Highbeam power out with switch with stalk in forward 
position

Blue/Red = Lowbeam power out of switch with stalk in aft 
position

 

I have seen several switches (European cars?) with a set of switch 
contacts for turning the Highbeams on when the stalk is in the Lowbeam position. 
This done by pulling the switch further aft from the low beam 
position.

 

A picture of the Highbeam flash contacts on a switch module from a 
broken switch is attached.

 

You can check the flash function by putting the switch in the aft 
position connecting an Ohmmeter between the Blue and the Blue/Red wires and then 
(with you third hand) pulling the switch further aft. The Ohmmeter should switch 
to indicate zero ohms the flash switch activated.

 

If the switch does not work, you get access to the switch plate by 
breaking off the tabs at the top/end corners of the metal housing (they will 
break in any case) and flatten the two retaining tabs at each side of the upper 
front of the switch plate. The switch plate can then be removed for 
cleaning/repair. You will need to drill and tap for screws to the retain the 
switch plate when you reinstall it. I use 4-40 screws. Be sure the screws do not 
touch any of the wiring terminals.

 

Here's the blurb on the switch repairs I do:

 

>>>>>>>


The turn signal switch has several common points of failure for 
which I have implemented fixes.

 


The only thing I haven't been able to fix is if the main plastic 
module, which is the guts of the thing, is truly disintegrated. I have fixed 
about a dozen switches so far, and have only seen one unit in that condition. I 
was recently given a box of old turn signals which had been replaced when NOS 
replacements were still available, so I have a good supply of spare parts. Many 
of the units given to me have good main plastic 
modules.


 


My wife (blame it on her) says I must charge $50 to repair and 
rework the turn signals. She says I am always working on some Pantera but 
never her Pantera.

 

The $50 includes return shipping. insurance, and a 
lifetime warranty (my lifetime). For the time it takes to completely repair and 
install the strength improvements, the labor rate works out to be just slightly 
less than what Wal Mart pays.


 

Ship the turn signal to:


 

Bill Taylor

23420 Shadycroft Ave

Torrance, CA 90505


 

USPS Priority Mail is as fast as anything else and is 
cheaper.

 

So, mail it on down. It will be returned in less than a 
week.

 

 

To remove the 
switch, you must drop the steering column.
 
 
 
Remove one of the 
steering column two rear clamp bolts completely. Go to a hardware store and get 
two 8 x 1.25 mm x 40 mm (about 1 ½ inch) bolts. Longer is better. Screw one 
of the new long bolts into the hole where you removed the first regular bolt. 
Remove the second rear bolt. Screw the second long bolt into the second hole. 
Remove the remaining two front bolts (mine are Allen head) and drop the column 
down. The long bolts will support the column, but more important, they will 
align the column clamp holes when you put the whole thing back in place with 
only two hands and limited tolerance for frustration.
 
 
 
Remove the screws 
holding the switch cover in place. Remove the screws holding the switch clamp in 
place. Unplug the switch harness. Put the various bolts, screws, and the cover 
in a baggie.

 

<<<<<<<<<

 

Have 
fun,


 

 

SOBill 
Taylor
sobill at aol.com



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