[DeTomaso] AAAAAAARGH!!!!!

Christopher Kimball chrisvkimball at msn.com
Sun Jun 3 19:09:19 EDT 2007


I'll try to test the relay and perform the  other assorted tests you all 
have suggested (thanks, by the way), but at the risk of sounding like the 
non-mechanic guy I am, what does the relay look like?  I went to some kind 
of MSD ready to run distributor and a single wire alternator, if that helps.

Sorry I'm so illiterate about this stuff.

By the way, upon further testing (actually it was more like a few more 
futile attempts to start the car, just in case the whole not-starting thing 
was just my imagination--it wasn't) I noticed when I first turn on the 
ignition, the ammeter goes a bit negative for a second, then pops back to a 
slightly less negative position.  Then, when I turn the key to the start 
position, there is no movement whatsoever from the ammeter and no sound.  
Don't know if that's relevant or not.

Thanks again,

Chris




>From: "Will Kooiman" <wkooiman at earthlink.net>
>To: "'John McKee'" <johnmckee at cox.net>,"'Christopher Kimball'" 
><chrisvkimball at msn.com>
>CC: <deTomaso at realbig.com>
>Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] AAAAAAARGH!!!!!
>Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2007 17:12:49 -0500
>
>I vote for the starter solenoid/relay.
>
>I've mentioned this before. The starter relays available these days are
>crap.  Either use a mini starter that has an integral relay or get one from
>a Ford dump truck (or maybe a big diesel, F350, F700, etc.).  They work the
>same way as a standard relay, but they aren't cheap Taiwan crap.
>
>To test your relay, you could run a jumper cable from the starter side of
>the relay to the battery side of the relay (while the car is in neutral of
>course).  If it cranks, it's the relay.
>
>Will.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
>Behalf Of John McKee
>Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 4:06 PM
>To: Christopher Kimball
>Cc: deTomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] AAAAAAARGH!!!!!
>
>Chris,
>
>Double check all of the battery to starter connections.
>If you are not hearing the starter gear trying to engage I would be
>suspicious you are not getting enough juice back there or something is 
>amiss
>
>with your "new starter and solenoid".  The new parts would be the first
>thing I would check.
>I know I always over look the small stuff so start with the simple things
>and leave the outrageous thoughts (motor seized) for later tonight or maybe
>2:00 am!
>;o)
>
>John
>4488
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Christopher Kimball" <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
>To: <detomaso at realbig.com>
>Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 1:05 PM
>Subject: [DeTomaso] AAAAAAARGH!!!!!
>
>
> > Yesterday I drove my car home from the shop after new rotors were
> > installed
> > on the front.  This was really the first time I drove it any length 
>after
> > the motor rebuild and all the other stuff that has been done to it since 
>I
> > bought it.
> >
> > Although it seemed to run great and sounded awesome,I noticed some 
>coolant
> > overflowed into a parking lot on a stop on my way home, so this morning 
>I
> > checked the bottle with the pressure release cap and it was only half 
>full
> > (that's the bottle with the temp sending unit on it).  I jacked the car 
>up
>
> > a
> > few inches in the back and refilled the bottle with 50/50 coolant.
> >
> > Here's the bad part:  I then tried to start the car and...NOTHING!!!  
>The
> > gauges all light up and work, the battery is strong, but after just
> > installing a new starter, new solenoid, alternator, etc. the car is
> > DEAD!!!
> > No engine turnover or movement at all, no loud, audible noises when I 
>turn
> > the key (although I think the ammeter moves negative when I do 
>that)--just
> > an eerie silence.
> >
> > I guess I'll have AAA tow it into the shop tomorrow unless anyone can 
>give
> > me any simple tests to try so I can determine what the problem is.  What 
>a
> > bummer!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
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