[DeTomaso] multiple mods- long

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 4/16/07 6:46:37 PM, dfzll at aol.com writes:

<< I am waiting on a new engine, which is 377ci Cleveland stroker. I am 
interested in what major or necessary modifications some of you have made to your 
Panteras for:
 
Don't know if anyone actually answered you, Don, so here's my take:
  1.  Suspension upgrades   
Extra caster in the front end will add more high speed stability and reduce 
tramlining or following road grooves with wider tires. This can be done by 
adding polyurethane offset upper a-arm bushings to give about 4.5 degrees back; 
max possible stock was 2.6 degrees. 
2- unless you know for sure the steering rack has a bronze bushing in the 
right side, this needs to be done or instability and noises will occur within 10K 
miles on a brand new stock bushing. 
3- the spring spacers need to be removed from the coilover shocks frt & rear. 
4- adding a pair of 8" Campys in front (like are on the back end) will ease 
the steering because these wheels are offset 1" further inboard and give a more 
correct wheel alignment than stock 7" Campys. 
5-adding 3/16" thick shims under the steering rack mounts will correct some 
if not all the bump-steer in the car.  Note that all of these individual 
changes (except the 8" wheels) requires re-alignment of the front end before driving 
very far.
  
2.  Cooling upgrades

Any stock 37-yr old radiator needs to go away. I use an aluminum Fluidyne 
with dual sucker fans in a Flexilite fan shroud mounted behind the radiator. 
Note- any Pantera radiator can be slanted fwd. This does nothing good or bad for 
cooling but makes it easier to connect up the hoses etc behind the assembly. It 
is not mandatory. Slightly longer hoses may be needed';the Fluidyne rads from 
Pantera vendors come with 90 degree extensions to fit around the shrouded 
rear fans, two thermal switches for the Flexilite fans and slant-fwd straps along 
with good rear shroud mounts. Generic speed shops sell the Flexilite fans & 
Fluidyne rads cheaper but with no extras, so you have to piece the system 
together to actually make things work. Drill out or cut away the stock 
front-mounted fan holders for rad clearance when slanting it fwd. Also be sure to cut down 
the upper rad cover after slanting the rad- a top cover is necessary.

3.  Brake upgrades
Stage 1: Throw away the non-adjustable proportioning valve & the shuttle 
valve under the brake booster and simply hook the lines together correctly. Add 
performance brake pads from EBC or Porterfield.
Stg 2: add ventillated front rotors. These can be cast-iron Mustang or 
lighter aluminum-hat Brembos. Both work with all stock front calipers & are true 
bolt-ons.
Stg 3: add ventillated rear rotors and bigger rear calipers. This requires 
complete disassembly of the rear suspension so is a good time to inspect the 
stub axles, bearings and lower cross-pivot shafts, and fix as required. It also 
discards the stock parking brakes; Pantera East has a variation on my separate 
mechanical calipers that function as great parking brakes using the stock 
cockpit handle, cables & linkage. 
Note- the 1st 3 changes will give excellent road brakes but are NOT 
racing-grade. Adding racing brakes adds maybe 6X the cost of stgs 1-3 inclusive but 
gives you brakes suitable for semi-pro road events. The best assemblies will need 
bigger 17" diameter wheels & tires, too- at $3500 or more besides the cost of 
brakes.

4.  Lowered floor pans (I'm 6'2" too short for the cockpit) >>
I'm also 6'2" but with modified seat cushions in stock early seats that also 
now adjust for rake angle, I can drive all day, with or without a helmet on, 
without touching the roof. A minute's adjustment allows my 5'6" wife to drive 
with equal comfort. and when I sit in the passenger seat, I cannot touch the 
front firewall with my toes, thanks to the modified flat firewall blister I 
added. 
Most if not all substituted seats especially Recaros are even thicker than 
stock in base or back, so the problem is compounded. Dropping the floor pan is 
simply done by cutting around the two sides & back, and bending the flap of 
steel down, then welding in filler pieces. 2-1/2" is about the max you can get, 
and locks the seat in place once done 'cause then there's no back & forth room 
for adjustment. Cutting further fwd for adjustment chops out a floor pan 
side-brace that stiffens up the chassis, and you don't want to weaken the chassis 
any more!

There are multiple articles on all these subjects in the POCA newsletter, 
more each month, and back issues are available. Are you a member? In what 
location? I can recommend help in most areas of the U.S & Europe. If not a member, 
e-mail <JPOCA2@ hotmail.com> for details on joining us.
Good luck- J DeRyke, newsletter editor & tech ed.

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