[DeTomaso] New Owner Questions

Larry - Ohio Time Corp larry at ohiotimecorp.com
Wed Jul 11 14:22:38 EDT 2007


Hi Clay,

 

I do not think the stock fuse boxes are that bad that they burst into
flames, as long as you keep it under 200MPH. They are; old, use old odd
fuses, do not clamp onto the fuse well ( I use small rubber bands on the
tabs to help with that) and do not have enough fuses to cover all the items
in the car (you will see one fuse protects 2 or more things). There are a
lot of reasons to replace it and I plan on doing it to my car when it goes
back to being a car, but bursting into flames is not one of the reasons in
my book. One of the guys on the forum sells a kit to use a "Ne-son" fuse
box.

 

To get the dash brighter change the lamps to the 5w models (NAPA has them).
The Texas boys have an up date to put more lamps in the tack and spedo and
also a LED kit to brighten things up. It is all on there web page. I will
LED mine when the time comes.

 

Good luck

 

Larry - Cleveland

 

 

 

  _____  

From: clay willmott [mailto:claywillmott at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 10:10 AM
To: larry at ohiotimecorp.com; DeTomaso at realbig.com
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] New Owner Questions

 

Thanks for everyones responses previously.

While I have my car apart should I change out to a newer fuse panel?  I have
seen several of the guys mention fires with the old panels.  The fuses are
all clean, and fuses 7,8,9 have a circuit to the battery while the keys are
out.  I know the courtesy and radio account for two of these, but I am not
sure about the third???

Should the rheostat allow the lights in the dash to be seen easily?  I have
to strain to see when they are on (even in near darkness).  The contacts
appear clean behind the rheostat with no corrosion.  Time to replace or are
they all that way?

Main electrical problem found I think...After I had to replace my rear light
bulb in the tail light (light still did not work) I took it apart and the
yellow wire is corroded and bare for 6 inches.  I think the wire insulation
was worn away by the sharp edge on the tubing where it exits the car.  Same
problem to the rear side running light.  I am hopeful that this will fix the
problem (with my gauges) when replaced with new wire and covering the sharp
surface-not to mention running lights that actually work. 

Thanks

Clay

 

 

 


 


  _____  


From:  "Larry - Ohio Time Corp" <larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
Reply-To:  <larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
To:  "'clay willmott'" <claywillmott at hotmail.com>,<DeTomaso at realbig.com>
Subject:  RE: [DeTomaso] New Owner Questions, Help
Date:  Thu, 5 Jul 2007 11:39:24 -0400
>Hi Clay,
>
>Welcome to the family.
>
>#1 problem
>In general if one thing acts odd when a second is turned on it is a problem
>with the ground of the second item. It is hunting for a good ground and
will
>take one where ever it can find one. Fred has talked about the poor
>grounding of items on the front 1/2 of the car. I would start by cleaning
>all connections and grounds. You may also want to attach some temp. grounds
>to see if thing work ok. The next thing I always look at is other peoples
>work. At this point in time God is the only one who knows how things are
>wired. If you can disconnect the fans or other changed ckts. then do your
>head light test.
>
>The voltmeter is not a real good tool to use between a battery cable and
the
>battery post. It is way too sensitive of a tool. If you have a memory in
>your radio or alarm system it will read a full 12 volts. But the power draw
>will be very low from them. What you need to use an amp meter to tell you
>the power draw. If you do not have one lying around you can use an old head
>light. Wire it on the two battery posts to get an idea of how bright it is
>at full load, and then install it between the post and the cable. The
>brightness of the lamp will give you a clue on the draw.
>
>#2 problem
>
>I think Jack has said that the fan motor can come out with the dash still
>in. I have not had the pleasure of doing that job.
>
>Good luck and keep us informed.
>
>
>
>Larry (do you smell smoke?)- Cleveland
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
>Behalf Of clay willmott
>Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:44 PM
>To: DeTomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: [DeTomaso] New Owner Questions, Help
>
>Hello, I just got my first  Pantera a month ago and I was hoping someone
may
>
>have insight for two problems I have encountered.
>
>Car: 71 Push Button with optima, 100 amp alternator, MSD and Radiator/fan
>upgrade with 2 fuse relay.
>
>Problem #1: Electrical:
>
>When I turn on the headlights, the gauges go all the way to the right (Temp
>  > 220 etc) and the lights are very slow to come up and dim.  The temp and
>other gauges are fine once I turn the lights back off again.  Also, the
>wipers and window switches only work if the cars is above idle and are very
>slow.
>
>Things I have done: Took battery/alter to be checked and they were good.
Of
>
>note the positive battery post to terminal has 12 volts through it when
>removed from the post on a voltmeter. I think this would be a large short
>circuit somewhere in the car????
>
>If it is a short where to start?  Anyone had this problem?  The car is
quite
>
>modified and it is kind of confusing under the dash.
>
>Problem # 2:  Dash fan blower sounds broken (sounds like a rock is in the
>blades) and blows out nasty insulation from ac hoses.  I have removed the
>sticky black insulation since then.
>
>Do you have to take the entire dash apart to get the fan housing out?  If
so
>
>is there an easy way to remove/replace/repair it?
>
>Thanks
>Clay
>Poca # 4181
>
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