[DeTomaso] New Owner Questions (long)

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 7/04/07 6:44:41 PM, claywillmott at hotmail.com writes:

<<....the positive battery post to terminal has 12 volts through it when  
removed from the post on a voltmeter. I think this would be a large short circuit 
somewhere in the car????
If it is a short where to start?  Anyone had this problem?  The car is quite 
modified and it is kind of confusing under the dash.

Tracing the problem should be simplified by pulling one fuse at a time and 
noting when the current draw stops (as shown by unbolting the battery hot-wire & 
look for sparks, or with a VOM). This localizes the problem to "something in 
that circuit". I'd start looking at any obviously added wires in that circuit. 
Panteras are THE most modified sportscar in history so its hard to tell whats 
in there now, or how competent the previous owner(s) were. And the factory 
components and practices of the day were unique to hand-crafted, limited- 
production sportscars from Italy. It helps to retain a sense of humor when working 
on DeTomasos. Do not try fixing things to a tight schedule!

You need a wiring schematic but be aware that DeTomaso produced cars with 
'running changes during their entire production run. There are at least 4 
different known "official schematics" '71-74, that all show changes in function and 
wire colors. So what you need is to pick one with the published date closest to 
the build-date of your car, and annotate the changes you WILL find. One early 
schematic is in your Blue Owners Manual; if your eyes aren't up to following 
the tiny print, some enterprising vendors sell many of the schematics blown up 
to a large size and plastic-laminated.  I own all 4 schematics and none are 
entirely correct for our '72L. Patience and a good VOM will be your friend.

< Problem # 2:  Dash fan blower sounds broken (sounds like a rock is in the  
blades) and blows out nasty insulation from ac hoses.....>>

It may well have a rock in there. I hope you're flexible 'cause the defroster 
hoses might no longer be connected to the vents or at least not without big 
holes. You'll have to get under the dash to check. Some help comes from 
removing the 4-gauge console and/or the speedo and tach. Be aware the 'flex hoses' 
become less flexible  with age (just as owners do) and any attempt to re-route 
them may bust them completely in two. To remove the ventillation fan, it is 
possible to do this with the dash in place, but unless you've seen it done, you 
won't believe it- the 3 clamp-screws are invisible and once out, the clamp may 
be removed but then you must manipulate the dual fans aound to free them of 
their housings. Note the squirrel-cage type impellers on both ends of the blower 
motor are plastic, very fragile and not easily replaceable. Finally, its 
quite possible to R & R the blower motor, clean & repair it, then replace it with 
the impellers on backwards. Little air comes out in this configuration..... do 
not ask how I know!  
A hint: the whole dash comes out with only 4 screws but replacing it is a 
real chore. The method has been published in past newsletters, with photos.

If you have not yet joined POCA, that might be your 1st move. The Forum is 
valuable but the real help is from knowlegable members in your area that will 
actually help you fix your own car, hands-on. There's only so much written help 
one can glean from the Forum and some 'info' is contradictory depending on 
what year, model and mods that have been done. POCA regularly publishes Tech 
tips, life-experiences and event info each month in the Newsletter. There are 
currently 20 local Chapters & 1000 members,  plus groups in Europe. Back issues 
are avaiiable. Contact Judy McCartney at <JPOCA2 at hotmail.com> for membership 
details. Welcome to the absolute best car-support-group (not just a 'club') in 
the universe! Cheers- J Deryke, newsletter editor, tech advisor and fellow owner
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