[DeTomaso] No Idle Blues continued part 1

Will Kooiman wkooiman at earthlink.net
Wed Jul 4 23:49:04 EDT 2007


Any amount of gas would change the timing:    Is there a vacuum advance
hooked up?  If so where is it connected?  It should be hooked up to the port
on the metering block - not the base plate.

The nipple on the metering block is ported vacuum.  It doesn't have vacuum
at idle.  Non-ported vacuum is on the base plate.  It has vacuum all the
time.  You don't want vacuum sent to your vacuum advance at idle.  If you
do, the engine will hunt up and down for a happy place to idle, and for me,
it always eventually died.  Ported vacuum doesn't allow vacuum advance at
idle, so the idle is stable.  Once you get under way, the port is exposed,
so you get vacuum and your vacuum advance works.

The heat range of the plugs controls the cleaning of the plugs.  The hotter
the plugs, the cleaner they will be.  However, the hotter the plug, the more
likely you'll have detonation.  You want to run the coldest plugs you can
run that will stay clean.

My car runs best with initial timing around 16-18.  Total advance comes out
to 40-42.  My Mallory distributor has 24 degrees of mech advance.  My car
made about the same power (within 10-20hp) with a lot less advance, but
driveability was terrible.  I left the dyno with 12-14 initial (I don't
remember exactly), but it ran like crap until I bumped up initial timing to
16-18.  I think I'm set on 18 right now.  It pings under a load and diesels
with 87 octane.  It pings under a load, but doesn't diesel with 89 octane.
It runs great with 93 octane.

By the way, I blew out 3 different optical sensors in Mallory Unilites (2
different engines).  I converted both to Pertronix.  The Pertronix
conversion is simple, cheap, and reliable.

Will.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of charles buthala
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:35 PM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] No Idle Blues continued part 1

Here are responses to all of Jack's prolific answers, let me know if any
shed any light.
  My gas tank has been cleaned and sealed, therefore there should be no sock
or contaminants in the tank or lines.
  My filter is on the pressure side of the fuel line, I quote " A bomb"
appropriate while I sit here and listen to the fireworks on Independence
day.  I may consider moving that unit.
  The engine and ZF are grounded.  I just installed both grounds within the
last month so they should be working fine.
  That still levees me with an unsolved problem of the hot start, its just
plain strange.

JDeRyke at aol.com wrote:
  
In a message dated 7/04/07 10:23:23 AM, charlesbuthala at yahoo.com writes:
<<  it dropped RPM and stalled. I could not get it to fire again. I had this
problem before, when it gets hot it will not fire. >>    If yu don't have
one, a gear drive mini-starter needed, along with a good   ground wire
between engine (or ZF) and a clean paint-free spot on the subframe.   Using
both, our engine spins & fires smoking-hot with 10-1/2"1 C.R. FWIW- J
DeRyke


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