[DeTomaso] FW: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)

Christopher Kimball chrisvkimball at msn.com
Sun Dec 16 15:07:02 EST 2007



Dear Tomas,

Unfortunately, my reply never made it to your email in box--I don't know why, so I'm sending my reply to the forum in the hopes you'll pick it up there (see below).

Thanks,

Chris
#3846

From: postmaster at mail.hotmail.com
To: chrisvkimball at msn.com
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 08:20:49 -0800
Subject: Delivery Status Notification (Failure)

This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
 
Delivery to the following recipients failed.
 
       guson at home.se
 
 
 
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: chrisvkimball at msn.com
To: guson at home.se
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] If it's broke, don't fix it...
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 08:10:14 -0800






Dear Tomas,

That's really interesting--thanks for the picture.  The question I have, though, is what is the switching mechanism you use?  My car is a manual, cable actuated plunger arrangement with no wires or electrical anything!  I have nothing which to attach any wires.

Is your Pantera a later model with an electrically actuated heater switch?

Thanks,

Chris
#33846

From: guson at home.se
To: chrisvkimball at msn.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] If it's broke, don't fix it...
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 16:40:45 +0100










Chris,
 
Here's where I mounted my thermostat. It's about the size 
of a cigarette pack and it's intended for room temperature regulation. I zip 
tied it to the heater tubing IIRC. It weighs very little anyway. It has about 1 
C hystresis. It's set to 22 C which is about 70 F and I never change it. I 
simply pulled the wires from my stock switch and put one at the thermostat 
(with a bit of extension of course) and the other at my dash switch. 
Then there's a wire from the switch to the thermostat of course.
 
Tomas

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: 
  Christopher 
  Kimball 
  To: Tomas Gunnarsson 
  Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 1:41 
  AM
  Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] If it's broke, 
  don't fix it...
  
That's great, thanks.
 
I think what I may do once I 
  see your schematic and become familiar with the thermostat you used, is to 
  check for a small, digital one I can somehow mount in the dash in  place 
  of the stock air conditioning switch.  That way I can just use it without 
  the need for an additional switch.

Of course, we all know what happens 
  to the best laid plans of mice, men and Pantera 
  owners!

Sincerely,


Chris
3846i

> From: 
  guson at home.se
> To: chrisvkimball at msn.com
> Subject: Re: 
  [DeTomaso] If it's broke, don't fix it..
> Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 
  21:11:54 +0100
> 
> That sounds fascinating--I'd love to know how 
  you did it . If you have any information, please feel free to forward it to 
  me(wiring, switch type, etc.). I'd like to do the same thing in my 
  car.
> 
> >Sure, I'll get some pics and a schematic.
> 
  
> One question, though; why would you need an "always on" 
  switch--wouldn't you just need to set the thermostat to a low temp setting to 
  achieve the same thing?
> 
> >Valid question. You're right but 
  I can't see the thermostat from the drivers seat. It's set once and I never 
  change it. The forced on setting is rarely used but comes in handy as a 
  demisting device once in a while.
> 
> Tomas
> 
> 
  
> From: guson at home.se
> > To: detomaso at realbig.com
> 
  > Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2007 12:15:17 +0100
> > Subject: Re: 
  [DeTomaso] If it's broke, don't fix it...
> > 
> > I got 
  tired of the stock AC control unit and replaced it with an ordinary room 
  thermostat. I have a three way switch that enables me to choose "off", 
  "thermostat control" and "always on" for the AC compressor. I was surprised 
  how well it works with respect to temperature gradient in the car. I mounted 
  the thermostat next to the fan intake above the accelerator.
> > 
  
> > Tomas
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
  
> > From: "Christopher Kimball" 
  <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> > To: <jderyke at aol.com>; 
  <jab at cisco.com>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, 
  November 25, 2007 2:18 AM
> > Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] If it's broke, 
  don't fix it..
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > 
  > Thanks for the info--mine is the bent rod variety.
> > > 
  
> > > I will probably set aside a Saturday to take a look at 
  taking the thing apart, although I really am a bit nervous since I don't know 
  what I'm doing. 
> > > 
> > > Of course, if I totally 
  screw up the heater, I guess that will give me the impetus to do what I've 
  always wanted to do with the Pantera, and that is replace the entire heating 
  and air conditioning system with a digital control that operates with a 
  thermostat like my modern cars have.
> > > 
> > > That 
  will mean taking the dash out, so maybe while it's out I should get it 
  recovered in black leather to match the headliner and bulkhead. And while 
  that's going on, maybe I could take out the seats and get them recovered, too, 
  and then, maybe I could...
> > > 
> > > By the way, 
  the lever isn't broken on my current heater, it's the casing around the cable 
  that broke. There's a little clamp that holds the cable in place, and it 
  clamps to the casing. Now that the casing is broken, there's nothing to hold 
  the cable in place, so it just moves, casing and all, when I move the lever. 
  If I ever do remove the dash, I'm pretty sure I could just replace the 
  cable.
> > > 
> > > Thanks again for your 
  help!
> > > 
> > > Sincerely,
> > > 
  
> > > Chris
> > > 3846
> > > 
> 
  > > PS: To make myself feel better today, I installed the hood lock pins 
  in the back to help stabilize the back deck. While I had the taillights out, I 
  cleaned them all up, especially the lenses, and glued a few small cracks I 
  found in them, too. So, two steps forward, one step back!
> > > 
  
> > > From: JDeRyke at aol.com
> > > Date: Sat, 24 Nov 
  2007 15:08:33 -0500
> > > Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] If it's broke, 
  don't fix it...
> > > To: chrisvkimball at msn.com; jab at cisco.com; 
  detomaso at realbig.com
> > > 
> > > Chris, in my long 
  reply, I forgot to mention that there are two different water heater valves 
  possible, depending on the year. One has a simple bent rod that serves as the 
  on/off lever while the second one has a flat sheet-metal lever that rides in a 
  cam-slot cut into the brass heater valve top. Once disassembled, the guts are 
  the same and the same o-ring is used. Chuck Engals wrote an article on 
  repairing his valve some decades ago after much the same experience as you 
  had. Or, there are replacement valves available at all the vendors, as well as 
  good used dashboard heater levers. Just be careful to 'back up' the wrench 
  used to remove the valve, or its possible to crack the copper tube its 
  fastened to. Good luck- J DeRyke
> > > 
> > > 
> 
  > > **************************************
> > > Check out 
  AOL's list of 2007's hottest products.
> > > 
  (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
> 
  > > _______________________________________________
> > > 
  
> > > Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
> > > 
> 
  > > Archive Search Engine Now Available at 
  http://www.realbigcom/detomaso/
> > > 
> > > DeTomaso 
  mailing list
> > > DeTomaso at list.realbigcom
> > > 
  http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
> > >
> 
  > _______________________________________________
> > 
> 
  > Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
> > 
> > Archive Search 
  Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
> > 
> 
  > DeTomaso mailing list
> > DeTomaso at list.realbig.com
> > 
  http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso




More information about the DeTomaso mailing list