[DeTomaso] Clutch Master Cylinder

[clay willmott]

I just did the same thing yesterday.

You need a 13mm wrench for the front trunk and a 13 mm socket for behind the pedals.  They are bolts that spin if you do not secure both sides to remove.   If you have someone turn the 13 mm nuts in trunk you can use the 13 mm socket with an extender under the dash (I used a 3/8 drive which just fits into the very tight area. 

If you lay on your back and can extend your head back under the dash near the pedals if you can stand the temporary vertigo you may experience.  If you are larger than medium you may need to remove the seat.  You still have the push rod and piston though  before you can remove the master from the front firewall.  After removing the two 13 mm bolts you can pull the master out about 2 inches and remove the inner snap ring just visible in the bore.  If you unsnap that the entire master can be removed except the pushrod itself. This will allow you to avoid recalibration and just replace the damaged master/piston.seals etc. and use the pushrod as is.   I got this tip from Mike Drew.  Or you can remove the entire pushrod assembly from under the dash which is probably not fun (look at panteraplace.com  on tech info clutch system).

Good Luck,
Clay



> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 11:38:20 -0800
> From: edlebby at yahoo.com
> To: detomaso at realbig.com; SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Clutch Master Cylinder
> 
> Hi all - if I were looking to take off the stock clutch master cylinder - seems straightforward but thought I would double check - have taken off the plastic resevoir (1 1/16 wrench)...that came off easily - the it looks to be mounted to two studs with 13mm nuts - QUESTION: are these really fixed studs...or is there something on the otherside of the firewall under the dash (like a bolt head) that one has to hold down)?? - if not, it would be those 2 retaining nuts, unfasten the hydraulic line and it is off...right? - many thanks! - stephen
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