[DeTomaso] 73L dying - some progress
Murch, J L
j.l.murch at lmco.com
Tue Aug 7 17:37:19 EDT 2007
Konrad,
Something isn't quite right in your explanation. I'm a late arrival to
your post and am just getting
up to speed but I do have a few observations. First, there are only two
RED wires on your coil.
The first is the HV cable (don't think this is the one yoy are talking
about)
and the second is a wire that feeds 12 volts through a vacuum
controlled switch
to the throttle position solenoid mounted on the factory carburetor. If
this wire falls off for any reason
or gets pinched and grounded, it frys the red wire and sometimes the
entire harness. For some brilliant
reason, most of the terminals on this wire are uninsulated and this
turns out to be a fairly common problem.
The Ignition coil is fed from the light blue wire from the ignition
switch and it is an un-fused wire.
It feeds thru the ignition switch back to 12 volts (Pink wire). The
Blue/Black wire feeds the Tachometer
and the Blue wire gos to the points. The remaining Orange wire
provides 12 volts to the coil when
the starter is energized.
Make sure that the Red wire is not shorted to the engine block or
pinched somewhere. For a quick test,
you can disconnect the Red wire and see if the engine starts but be
aware that you may need to
re-adjust the idle speed to keep the engine running.
Good luck.
Jim
---------------------------------------------------
[DeTomaso] 73L dying - some progress
Konrad.Szwab at AlconLabs.com Konrad.Szwab at AlconLabs.com
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A83%40ushst121.alconnet.com>
Tue Aug 7 08:12:34 CDT 2007
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I traced the fault to a bad induction coil. Not done, yet.
First I tested for spark - no spark.
Then cleaned the points and tested the spark plugs cables.
Then checked if the distributor main connection was getting spark -
none.
The jacked up the car and looked at the coil. The howled.
The positive red cable going to the coil was molten. I am not sure why.
I took the coil out and tested for spark by connecting plus to batt,
intermittently touching the negative terminal of the coil to batt and
seeing if a spark is generated between the coil high voltage and a
ground point. Very weak spark.
Went out and bought another coil from the car parts store. Repeated same
test, stronger spark.
Installed coil in car (with curses due to its location). Tried to start,
no start. Red cable to coil getting very hot, melting insulation.
Removed positive melting cable from coil. Ran staright cable to battery
positive, tried to crank, car started sputtering to life. Progress.
Red cable still smoking, connected to nothing on the coil side, but
getting power from fusebox, I presume.
What I believe happed is that the original coil went bad and the cable
strts between battery positive when key on and the intermittent ground
supplied by the points.
What I need to do is:
1. locate where in the fusebox the coil positive is connected (bad
cable) and disconnect it.
2. slice open cable all the way from fusebox to coil and remove molten
red wire.
3. Patch other damaged wires in the cable.
4. Run new wire to coil.
5. Pray and test.
Suggestions ?
Could a bad coil create this problem ?
Shouldn't a fuse have blown instead of a wire melting ?
Did anyone run into this issue before ?
-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
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On Behalf Of Konrad.Szwab at AlconLabs.com
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Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:20 PM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
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Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] 73L dying
I went to Autozone and got 8 Motorcraft SP-450 / ASF42C as I saw in a
previous post here plus a fuel filter. Not without annoyance since all I
get from saleswomen in car parts stores is "I do not know" or "I am not
a mechanic" until I manage to fight my way to the computer screen and
see the classifications they looked at with the eyes glazed over.
But I should not vent my anger on ignorant sales droids.
-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
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On Behalf Of Konrad.Szwab at AlconLabs.com
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Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 7:52 AM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
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Subject: [DeTomaso] 73L dying
Well, I guess happiness does not last.
After resolving the overheating issue due to the wrong thermostat
(thanks guys for the helpful info) and passing inspection Friday, an old
intermittent problem reared its head today again.
The car started this morning fairly easily, ran for a few hundred feet,
then started running rough and on pushing the gas pedal died. Would
crank, but not start, probably flooded.
I have these dim memories that it would do this if I start it and drove
away without letting it warm up, but could be just self blaming for
whatever mechanical fault there is.
Could it be bad spark plugs ? Probably they have not been changed in
about 8 years.
So:
- what could be the issue ? I bet when I get home the car would start
right up.
- if spark plugs, what spark plugs would be recommended for a stock 73 L
? I would prefer something available from AutoZone or a local parts
supplier, maybe I will just drive there and check what they would have
for a 72 Mustang, the alter ego.
- how difficult are the spark plugs to replace ? On my 87 TransAm they
are a pain, on a Maserati Biturbo they are easy.
- any traps I should watch for ?
Thanks !
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