[DeTomaso] Fw: Electrical, now engine break-in

Sun Apr 29 03:24:35 EDT 2007

Thank you for the info!

Chris

>From: "John Bentley (jab)" <jab at cisco.com>
>To: <detomaso at realbig.com>
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Fw:  Electrical, now engine break-in
>Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 20:55:47 -0700
>
>You will find a few methods out there, but unless you've done it before
>and are very confident, I highly recommend you follow the break-in
>procedures provided by the camshaft manufacturer.  Here is what comp
>cams has to say:
>
>http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf
>
>You can break up the 30 minute break-in period if necessary, but any
>deviation from the recommended procedures will make any possible
>warranty claim more difficult.
>
>JB
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]
>On Behalf Of Peter Kovacs
>Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 8:35 PM
>To: Will Demelo; detomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Fw: Electrical questions--HELP!
>
>I think that is correct. I believe the concept is when you first start
>it, you run it through the break in period so as the assembly lube is
>"rinsed from the parts", the surfaces properly wear in to each other.
>Running a 30 second interval may wash away the lube and leave
>unlubricated metal for the break in process. Is there an engine builder
>out there on the forum that can confirm or deny these rumors?
>
>Peter Kovacs
>Property Equity & Mortgage Mgmt
>209 345-6708
>209 523-4919 fx
>
>
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: Will Demelo <wdemelo at cogeco.ca>
>To: detomaso at realbig.com
>Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 7:04:37 PM
>Subject: [DeTomaso] Fw: Electrical questions--HELP!
>
>
>((that's what I was told, I don't exactly know how that works), I have
>run
> > the car for 30 seconds or so, just to make sure it runs, ))
>
>I'm no motor guru, but I think you have to run it full 20 minutes at a
>certain RPM for breakin. I wouldn't suggest running it at 30 second
>intervals until you can break in the cam properly.
>Will
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tomas Gunnarsson" <guson at home.se>
>To: "Christopher Kimball" <chrisvkimball at msn.com>;
><detomaso at realbig.com>
>Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 6:14 PM
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Electrical questions--HELP!
>
>
> > Chris,
> >
> > It is normal for the ammeter to show very high charging figures for
>the
> > first 30 seconds. Within minutes I'd expect the needle to drop back
> > towards (but not past) zero though. For the break in procedure I'd
>suggest
> > that you add some way of manually overriding your new control system
>to
> > run both fans at your own will. Do you have a working temp gauge?
> >
> > Tomas
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Christopher Kimball" <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> > To: <detomaso at realbig.com>
> > Sent: den 28 april 2007 23:44
> > Subject: [DeTomaso] Electrical questions--HELP!
> >
> >
> >> Well, it happened again.
> >>
> >> This afternoon my mechanic was SUPPOSED to come over and finish the
>work
> >> on
> >> the '72 to get it running and the cam broken in, or seated, or
>whatever.
> >> But, for about the fifth time, life intervened, there was a death in
>his
> >> wife's family, and he isn't going to make it.
> >>
> >> Therefore, I am once again asking for help from the ever-helpful
>forum
> >> (maybe I can do this myself and save some money!)  There are two
> >> immediate
> >> things with which I need help:
> >>
> >> 1) Although the motor needs to be run for 20 minutes to break in the
>new
> >> cam
> >> (that's what I was told, I don't exactly know how that works), I have
>run
> >> the car for 30 seconds or so, just to make sure it runs, and the
>first
> >> problem is that the tachometer doesn't work.  I received a new,
> >> single-wire
> >> alternator from Pantera Performance, and I apparently have a
>ready-to-run
> >> distributor, so I was told I just need to hook up one wire for the
>tach
> >> to
> >> work.  My first question is which wire and where do I hook it?
> >>
> >> 2) The other problem is that when the car is running, the ammeter
>pegs to
> >> the right all the way.  Although I'm completely pathetic as a
>mechanic, I
> >> do
> >> know that although it's good that the alternator is providing power,
>the
> >> needle is supposed to sit about in the middle of the gauge, not all
>the
> >> way
> >> to the right.  What do I need to do to correct this problem?
> >>
> >> There is one more question I have as well.  I installed a Dakota
>Digital
> >> fan
> >> relay system and set the fans to turn on at 150 and 175 degrees,
> >> respectively.  I ran the wire to the new sensor I bought and
>installed in
> >> the engine block by the water pump.  How long will the engine run
>before
> >> the
> >> fans should kick in?  I was thinking if I could fix the first two
> >> problems I
> >> might try running the car for 20 minutes at 2000 RPMs to break in the
>
> >> cam,
> >> but if for some reason the fans don't work, I need to know how long
> >> before I
> >> should shut off the engine to avoid damage.  With everything being
>new,
> >> there is a very pronounced "hot" smell if I run it for even a minute
>or
> >> two.
> >>   (I have put all new coolant in).
> >>
> >> I know this is asking a lot, but if anyone can help me with any of
>these
> >> questions, I'd really appreciate it.  I REALLY WANT TO DRIVE MY
>PANTERA!!
> >> (It's actually starting to get sunny here in the Evergreen State and
> >> believe
> >> me, that doesn't last for long).
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >>
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