Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles
One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike
Good point Mike - one of the previous times I had the panels off I cut some small pieces of wood so that the upper screws can be tightened and the shell held in place by the pieces of wood. Helps to get the top of the panel to lay better. Stephen Nelson From: MikeLDrew@aol.com [mailto:MikeLDrew@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 3:31 PM To: bill@incendium.com; steve@snclocks.com; audionut@hushmail.com; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike Good point Mike - one of the previous times I had the panels off I cut some small pieces of wood so that the upper screws can be tightened and the shell held in place by the pieces of wood. Helps to get the top of the panel to lay better. Stephen Nelson From: MikeLDrew@aol.com [mailto:MikeLDrew@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 3:31 PM To: bill@incendium.com; steve@snclocks.com; audionut@hushmail.com; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike
I did the same thing for 3400. Bud #3400 ( Drive it like there is no tomorrow -- for there may not be ! ) From: Stephen <steve@snclocks.com> To: MikeLDrew@aol.com; bill@incendium.com; audionut@hushmail.com; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 10:30 PM Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles Good point Mike - one of the previous times I had the panels off I cut some small pieces of wood so that the upper screws can be tightened and the shell held in place by the pieces of wood. Helps to get the top of the panel to lay better. Stephen Nelson From: MikeLDrew@aol.com [mailto:MikeLDrew@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 3:31 PM To: bill@incendium.com; steve@snclocks.com; audionut@hushmail.com; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages. I did the same thing for 3400. Bud #3400 ( Drive it like there is no tomorrow -- for there may not be ! ) __________________________________________________________________ From: Stephen <steve@snclocks.com> To: MikeLDrew@aol.com; bill@incendium.com; audionut@hushmail.com; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 10:30 PM Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles Good point Mike - one of the previous times I had the panels off I cut some small pieces of wood so that the upper screws can be tightened and the shell held in place by the pieces of wood. Helps to get the top of the panel to lay better. Stephen Nelson From: [1]MikeLDrew@aol.com [mailto:[2]MikeLDrew@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 3:31 PM To: [3]bill@incendium.com; [4]steve@snclocks.com; [5]audionut@hushmail.com; [6]detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ........fixing door rattles One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list [7]DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com [8]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages. References 1. mailto:MikeLDrew@aol.com 2. mailto:MikeLDrew@aol.com 3. mailto:bill@incendium.com 4. mailto:steve@snclocks.com 5. mailto:audionut@hushmail.com 6. mailto:detomaso@server.detomasolist.com 7. mailto:DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com 8. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 5:31 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso < detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans.
Wow, great piece of advice that I have never heard before in over 45 years of ownership! Jeff 6559 On Sun, Sep 25, 2016 at 5:31 PM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso <[1]detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> wrote: One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. Wow, great piece of advice that I have never heard before in over 45 years of ownership! Jeff 6559 References 1. mailto:detomaso@server.detomasolist.com
_the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass_ _...._just the kind of thing I would have done. Thanks, everyone. John #5909 Sent using Hushmail On September 25, 2016 at 3:31 PM, MikeLDrew@aol.com wrote:One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass ....just the kind of thing I would have done. Thanks, everyone. John #5909 Sent using Hushmail On September 25, 2016 at 3:31 PM, MikeLDrew@aol.com wrote: One thing worth mentioning is a lesson I learned from Kirk Evans. The fiberglass door panels are secured to the metal door frames with a bunch of tiny sheetmetal screws that run all the way around the edge of the panel. They are different lengths (at least on the cars I have worked on, they are different lengths, but some might have been changed?), but the significant factor is that the metal structure of the door is significantly smaller than the inside diameter (if you will) of the fiberglass panel. What does this mean? It means that when you install the panel, if you tighten the top screws first and then work your way around to the bottom, the panel will be hanging slightly low. If you tighten the bottom screws tight, it will bend and distort the panel both at the top and the bottom. The way to install the panel is to lay it in place and insert the bottom screws first, then tighten them all the way. This lifts the panel as high as it can go. Work your way around to the top, and when you get there, the inside of the panel might be a quarter of an inch above the metal structure below it. That's why you need longer screws there. Insert the screws but only tighten them so that they are just snug, not tight enough to start to distort the top edge of the panel. This will also help prevent the awful situation where the screws are inserted at the incorrect angle, and instead of running almost parallel to the glass, they go into the door at a 45 degree angle, and the end of the screw scratches the inside of the glass! DOH! Mike
participants (5)
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audionut＠hushmail.com -
B Hower -
Jeff Detrich -
MikeLDrew＠aol.com -
Stephen