Did you ever get the alternator problem sorted ? I drive my car much more than most, dare I say 90%, the PPC set up works great and I will stand by it. CheersBill MooreCalgary -------- Original message --------From: Mike Drew via DeTomaso <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Date: 2016-07-26 5:33 PM (GMT-07:00) To: klckmac@msn.com, detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cooling system In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac@msn.com writes:

Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless tube sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in for repairs and they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one for that price, but would like to know who has upgraded to a turn key kit like PIM offers or other dealer and if you would recommend any particular setup.

Ken, Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem.   For sure, that would work, but is it necessary?   No. The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop.   The quote they gave you is absurd.   Likely they are proposing an entirely new core for your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole new radiator.   If your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might as well just get a new radiator, but in that case I would just buy another one like you have now. By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this: A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free.   He had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a megabuck Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup.   Steve actually offered me the choice of several old radiators, and I took the best-looking one, knowing it needed work. I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from my house.   They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from failures in the brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening, and from the junction of the core and one of the end tanks. They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it back to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work. For this, they charged me FORTY dollars.   Not $650, not anything close.   That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running at a rock-solid 180 degrees in all conditions, including extended periods of idling in Las Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100 degrees, and has been doing so now for years. Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup.   But as long as your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should be able to get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost of buying a new Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck setup. One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is that it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when you're on the road.   The aluminum radiators are glued together and normally not easily repaired--if they can be repaired at all.   So while Hall recently failed to warranty their product per Chuck's testimony, at least their product is infinitely repairable. A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his radiator sprung a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant overboard.   He failed to notice the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil temp increase and Expensive Noises from the engine got his attention! Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little bit, he could have easily had the car repaired and saved his vacation, since apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply rattling a bit due to the lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin oil.   As it is, since he's not mechanically savvy he took the safe option and had the car towed back to England.   But if he had an aluminum radiator, likely that would have been his only recourse. Just FWIW.... Mike    In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac@msn.com writes:      Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless      tube sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in      for repairs and they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one      for that price, but would like to know who has upgraded to a turn      key kit like PIM offers or other dealer and if you would recommend      any particular setup.    Ken,    Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem.  For sure,    that would work, but is it necessary?  No.    The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop.  The    quote they gave you is absurd.  Likely they are proposing an entirely    new core for your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole new    radiator.  If your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might as    well just get a new radiator, but in that case I would just buy another    one like you have now.    By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this:    A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free.  He    had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a    megabuck Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup.  Steve actually    offered me the choice of several old radiators, and I took the    best-looking one, knowing it needed work.    I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from my    house.  They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from failures    in the brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening, and    from the junction of the core and one of the end tanks.    They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it    back to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work.    For this, they charged me FORTY dollars.  Not $650, not anything    close.  That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running at    a rock-solid 180 degrees in all conditions, including extended periods    of idling in Las Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100 degrees,    and has been doing so now for years.    Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup.  But as long    as your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should be    able to get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost of    buying a new Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck setup.    One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is    that it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when    you're on the road.  The aluminum radiators are glued together and    normally not easily repaired--if they can be repaired at all.  So while    Hall recently failed to warranty their product per Chuck's testimony,    at least their product is infinitely repairable.    A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France    earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his    radiator sprung a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant overboard.    He failed to notice the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil    temp increase and Expensive Noises from the engine got his attention!    Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little    bit, he could have easily had the car repaired and saved his vacation,    since apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply rattling    a bit due to the lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin oil.    As it is, since he's not mechanically savvy he took the safe option and    had the car towed back to England.  But if he had an aluminum radiator,    likely that would have been his only recourse.    Just FWIW....    Mike _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages. Did you ever get the alternator problem sorted ? I drive my car much more than most, dare I say 90%, the PPC set up works great and I will stand by it. Cheers Bill Moore Calgary -------- Original message -------- From: Mike Drew via DeTomaso <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Date: 2016-07-26 5:33 PM (GMT-07:00) To: klckmac@msn.com, detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Cooling system In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac@msn.com writes:

Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless tube sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in for repairs and they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one for that price, but would like to know who has upgraded to a turn key kit like PIM offers or other dealer and if you would recommend any particular setup.

Ken, Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem. For sure, that would work, but is it necessary? No. The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop. The quote they gave you is absurd. Likely they are proposing an entirely new core for your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole new radiator. If your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might as well just get a new radiator, but in that case I would just buy another one like you have now. By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this: A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free. He had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a megabuck Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup. Steve actually offered me the choice of several old radiators, and I took the best-looking one, knowing it needed work. I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from my house. They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from failures in the brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening, and from the junction of the core and one of the end tanks. They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it back to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work. For this, they charged me FORTY dollars. Not $650, not anything close. That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running at a rock-solid 180 degrees in all conditions, including extended periods of idling in Las Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100 degrees, and has been doing so now for years. Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup. But as long as your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should be able to get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost of buying a new Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck setup. One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is that it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when you're on the road. The aluminum radiators are glued together and normally not easily repaired--if they can be repaired at all. So while Hall recently failed to warranty their product per Chuck's testimony, at least their product is infinitely repairable. A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his radiator sprung a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant overboard. He failed to notice the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil temp increase and Expensive Noises from the engine got his attention! Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little bit, he could have easily had the car repaired and saved his vacation, since apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply rattling a bit due to the lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin oil. As it is, since he's not mechanically savvy he took the safe option and had the car towed back to England. But if he had an aluminum radiator, likely that would have been his only recourse. Just FWIW.... Mike In a message dated 7/26/16 8 41 31, klckmac@msn.com writes: Looking for advice on the newer aluminum radiators and stainless tube sets offered out there. I just took my OLD Hall brass one in for repairs and they want $650 for a re-do. I could get a new one for that price, but would like to know who has upgraded to a turn key kit like PIM offers or other dealer and if you would recommend any particular setup. Ken, Lots of people are proposing a $1500 fix to a $200 problem. For sure, that would work, but is it necessary? No. The first thing you need to do is find another radiator shop. The quote they gave you is absurd. Likely they are proposing an entirely new core for your existing tanks, which amounts to buying a whole new radiator. If your core is well and truly shot, then yes, you might as well just get a new radiator, but in that case I would just buy another one like you have now. By way of contrast to the megabucks suggestions, consider this: A few years ago, Wilkinson gave Lori an old Hall radiator for free. He had removed it from a customer's car when that guy 'upgraded' to a megabuck Fluidyne radiator and sucker fan setup. Steve actually offered me the choice of several old radiators, and I took the best-looking one, knowing it needed work. I brought it to a radiator shop out in the country a half-hour from my house. They pressure-tested it and found several leaks, from failures in the brazing around the drain petcock caused by overtightening, and from the junction of the core and one of the end tanks. They fixed all the leaks, pressure-tested it, painted it and gave it back to me, looking as good as new and guaranteed to work. For this, they charged me FORTY dollars. Not $650, not anything close. That radiator, with Hall Meriah fans, keeps her car running at a rock-solid 180 degrees in all conditions, including extended periods of idling in Las Vegas traffic with ambient temps nearing 100 degrees, and has been doing so now for years. Yes, you could spend a ton of money on an all-new setup. But as long as your existing core is good (and why wouldn't it be?), you should be able to get minor leaks repaired easily for a fraction of the cost of buying a new Hall replacement radiator, never mind the megabuck setup. One tremendous advantage of a brass radiator (any brass radiator) is that it can normally be repaired easily if it suffers damage when you're on the road. The aluminum radiators are glued together and normally not easily repaired--if they can be repaired at all. So while Hall recently failed to warranty their product per Chuck's testimony, at least their product is infinitely repairable. A Mangusta owner from England who was driving to the south of France earlier this month wound up going home on a tow truck because his radiator sprung a leak and it dribbled much of his coolant overboard. He failed to notice the water temp increase, but the subsequent oil temp increase and Expensive Noises from the engine got his attention! Had he been paying attention and thought about the problem a little bit, he could have easily had the car repaired and saved his vacation, since apparently the engine is actually unhurt and was simply rattling a bit due to the lifters not lifting as much due to the hot, thin oil. As it is, since he's not mechanically savvy he took the safe option and had the car towed back to England. But if he had an aluminum radiator, likely that would have been his only recourse. Just FWIW.... Mike _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages.