In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check?
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though.
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though. I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure. Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean
I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure. Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem. I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out. Mike In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes: I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check? the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem. I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out. Mike
Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running. I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive) Joe/NC -----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas@comcast.net; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check?
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though.
I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure. Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem. I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out. Mike
Joe, Their website calls it a switch, but it's actually a (variable) sender. One could make the case that one for an idiot light instead of a gauge could be termed a switch, but that's not what this one is. Having said that some people have made he mistake of installing a light sender for a gauge sender, and that one then pegs the gauge. But Mike's gauge was working properly for years and only recently did it flake out. Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 31, 2016, at 19:34, "Joseph F. Byrd, Jr." <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running.
I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive)
Joe/NC
-----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas@comcast.net; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check?
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though.
I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure.
Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst.
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem.
I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out.
Mike
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I didn't catch that the problem started with a sender that had been working. I ASSuMEd it was after changing sender. SO in the words of Miss Emily Litella (Gilda Radner) "NEVER MIND" Joe -----Original Message----- From: Mike Drew [mailto:MikeLDrew@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 23:46 PM To: Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. Cc: <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge Joe, Their website calls it a switch, but it's actually a (variable) sender. One could make the case that one for an idiot light instead of a gauge could be termed a switch, but that's not what this one is. Having said that some people have made he mistake of installing a light sender for a gauge sender, and that one then pegs the gauge. But Mike's gauge was working properly for years and only recently did it flake out. Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 31, 2016, at 19:34, "Joseph F. Byrd, Jr." <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running.
I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive)
Joe/NC
-----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas@comcast.net; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check?
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though.
I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the
gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure.
Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst.
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem.
I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out.
Mike
_______________________________________________
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I did pick up a new sender from NAPA: The box it came in has the numbers OP6091/Sender. When I enter that number into the NAPA website, it comes up as sender, gauge type. Mike -----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 8:46 PM To: Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> Cc: <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge Joe, Their website calls it a switch, but it's actually a (variable) sender. One could make the case that one for an idiot light instead of a gauge could be termed a switch, but that's not what this one is. Having said that some people have made he mistake of installing a light sender for a gauge sender, and that one then pegs the gauge. But Mike's gauge was working properly for years and only recently did it flake out. Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 31, 2016, at 19:34, "Joseph F. Byrd, Jr." <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running.
I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive)
Joe/NC
-----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas@comcast.net; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check?
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though.
I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the
gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure.
Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst.
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem.
I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out.
Mike
_______________________________________________
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And interestingly, the NAPA website lists that part for 1971-1974 Pantera! Mike Sent from my iPhone On Sep 1, 2016, at 17:35, "Mike Thomas" <mbefthomas@comcast.net> wrote:
I did pick up a new sender from NAPA: The box it came in has the numbers OP6091/Sender. When I enter that number into the NAPA website, it comes up as sender, gauge type. Mike
-----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 8:46 PM To: Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> Cc: <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
Joe,
Their website calls it a switch, but it's actually a (variable) sender.
One could make the case that one for an idiot light instead of a gauge could be termed a switch, but that's not what this one is.
Having said that some people have made he mistake of installing a light sender for a gauge sender, and that one then pegs the gauge. But Mike's gauge was working properly for years and only recently did it flake out.
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 31, 2016, at 19:34, "Joseph F. Byrd, Jr." <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running.
I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive)
Joe/NC
-----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas@comcast.net; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check?
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though.
I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the
gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure.
Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst.
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem.
I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out.
Mike
_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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I admit I am in error. Sorry I caused confusion, but I have learned something myself. It seems the more I search online the more conflicting garbage I find. I did find today where someone was having question about the OP6091 and performed a test using their air compressor. (Something that might be interesting to do) Their posting; "...testing with a regulator, mechanical air gauge, air hose connected to the Napa sender OP6091 and the Veglia gauge. Zero to ten psi air the sender remains an open circuit, so Vegila showed 0 until 10 psi air when the Vegila showed 17.5 psi, the mechanical was 15 psi, with 38 ohms when the Vegila showed 35.0 psi, the mechanical was 30 psi, with 24 ohms when the Vegila showed 52.5 psi, the mechanical was 58 psi, with 17 ohms when the Vegila showed 70.0 psi, the mechanical was 94 psi, with 11 ohms" Joe/nc -----Original Message----- From: Mike Thomas [mailto:mbefthomas@comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2016 20:36 PM To: 'Mike Drew'; 'Joseph F. Byrd, Jr.'; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge I did pick up a new sender from NAPA: The box it came in has the numbers OP6091/Sender. When I enter that number into the NAPA website, it comes up as sender, gauge type. Mike -----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 8:46 PM To: Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> Cc: <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge Joe, Their website calls it a switch, but it's actually a (variable) sender. One could make the case that one for an idiot light instead of a gauge could be termed a switch, but that's not what this one is. Having said that some people have made he mistake of installing a light sender for a gauge sender, and that one then pegs the gauge. But Mike's gauge was working properly for years and only recently did it flake out. Mike Sent from my iPhone On Aug 31, 2016, at 19:34, "Joseph F. Byrd, Jr." <byrdjf@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running.
I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive)
Joe/NC
-----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas@comcast.net; detomaso@server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:
I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check?
Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though.
I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the
gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure.
Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst.
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem.
I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out.
Mike
_______________________________________________
Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
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Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages.
participants (4)
-
Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. -
Mike Drew -
Mike Thomas -
MikeLDrew＠aol.com