In a message dated 6/20/16 5:36:39 PM, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes:

You may recall some time ago I posted about a hard start issue when the car was warm.  The two most common solutions offered were timing adjustment and bad solenoid on the starter.  I've adjusted the timing and she's running like raped ape, but still has the hard start.  So, I need to replace my mini starter (solenoid is integral).  I see a number of them on Ebay for prices that only say "too good to be true".

What does the collective have as a recommendation?

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First of all, don't suspect your starter as the culprit until you've eliminated all other possibilities, all of which are more likely. The fact

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First of all, don't suspect your starter as the culprit until you've eliminated all other possibilities, all of which are more likely. The fact that you already have a mini starter tells me that your problem almost assuredly lies elsewhere, as your starter has probably only seen a fraction of the use that one would expect before a problem would normally crop up. The first and most obvious question is: how is your battery? A weak battery will start a cold engine just fine, but struggle with a hot engine. An old battery might show 12V or greater but have relatively few amps available when you need them. I just went through this on one of my Sciroccos which has a relatively new battery, good charging system, but the 650 CCA (cold cranking amps) battery only had about 350 amps available when tested. After a long stint with a trickle charger it went up to 625 CCA. I don't know how long that's going to last

that you already have a mini starter tells me that your problem almost assuredly lies elsewhere, as your starter has probably only seen a fraction of the use that one would expect before a problem would normally crop up. The first and most obvious question is: how is your battery? A weak battery will start a cold engine just fine, but struggle with a hot engine. An old battery might show 12V or greater but have relatively few amps available when you need them. I just went through this on one of my Sciroccos which has a relatively new battery, good charging system, but the 650 CCA (cold cranking amps) battery only had about 350 amps available when tested. After a long stint with a trickle charger it went up to 625 CCA. I don't know how long that's going to last though. Batteries suffer from lack of use, and chances are you don't drive your Pantera often enough to 'exercise' the battery enough to prolong its life. Having a battery disconnect to isolate it from the electrical system will (for reasons I don't pretend to understand) greatly increase its lifespan, but eventually even the best battery will succomb to old age. How are your connections? The battery cable has a very long path which makes its job much harder. Checking your battery ground (short cable or strap from the negative terminal to the chassis in the front trunk) is an obvious first step. There is also a ground strap from the back of the gearbox to the chassis. It's also recommended to run yet another ground strap from one of the starter studs to one of the bolts securing the aluminum motor mount to the chassis. More grounds is better grounds. :>) Once you have positively eliminated ANY of those possible conditions, then and only then should you consider the prospect of a bad starter. Lots and lots of people have had great luck with the units from DB Electrical: http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-11368-ford-mini-pmgr-starter-302-351-manual-tr ansmissions-3223-sfd0012.aspx Normally you would have to ask for the included aux wiring kit, but since you already have a mini-starter I'm assuming you've already rewired the car to accomodate it? If not it certainly doesn't hurt to ask for the free wiring kit (they won't include it unless you ask). The flange is a fair bit thicker than the stock Ford starter, so I normally install longer studs in the bellhousing. I also use small-diameter nuts for easier socket access. The standard size for a nut with that thread size/pitch is 17mm; you can get flange nuts that use a 15mm socket, and ARP makes super-duper 12mm nuts that use a 12-point socket. Of course you have to be sure you have a 12mm deep socket or else you can't install them! Mike In a message dated 6/20/16 5:36:39 PM, mbefthomas@comcast.net writes: You may recall some time ago I posted about a hard start issue when the car was warm. The two most common solutions offered were timing adjustment and bad solenoid on the starter. I've adjusted the timing and she's running like raped ape, but still has the hard start. So, I need to replace my mini starter (solenoid is integral). I see a number of them on Ebay for prices that only say "too good to be true". What does the collective have as a recommendation? though. Batteries suffer from lack of use, and chances are you don't drive your Pantera often enough to 'exercise' the battery enough to prolong its life. Having a battery disconnect to isolate it from the electrical system will (for reasons I don't pretend to understand) greatly increase its lifespan, but eventually even the best battery will succomb to old age. How are your connections? The battery cable has a very long path which makes its job much harder. Checking your battery ground (short cable or strap from the negative terminal to the chassis in the front trunk) is an obvious first step. There is also a ground strap from the back of the gearbox to the chassis. It's also recommended to run yet another ground strap from one of the starter studs to one of the bolts securing the aluminum motor mount to the chassis. More grounds is better grounds. :>) Once you have positively eliminated ANY of those possible conditions, then and only then should you consider the prospect of a bad starter. Lots and lots of people have had great luck with the units from DB Electrical: http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-11368-ford-mini-pmgr-starter-302-351-manu al-transmissions-3223-sfd0012.aspx Normally you would have to ask for the included aux wiring kit, but since you already have a mini-starter I'm assuming you've already rewired the car to accomodate it? If not it certainly doesn't hurt to ask for the free wiring kit (they won't include it unless you ask). The flange is a fair bit thicker than the stock Ford starter, so I normally install longer studs in the bellhousing. I also use small-diameter nuts for easier socket access. The standard size for a nut with that thread size/pitch is 17mm; you can get flange nuts that use a 15mm socket, and ARP makes super-duper 12mm nuts that use a 12-point socket. Of course you have to be sure you have a 12mm deep socket or else you can't install them! Mike