From what I've experienced, powder coating grew out of the CA restrictions against solvent-based painting. It is a high-build thick-coat paint, and can be of several types where the applied heavy coat is heated to right around the melting point. The heat nearly liquifies the coating so the bits of paint all fuse into a continuous sheet. High, EVEN heat is essential as I found in successfully doing crackle-paint which is similar. In aerospace, we found the the temp required by some proprietary powder paints including teflon varied from 350F to 700F, so don't mix-and-match paint, heaters & instructions from different sources and expect to get good results. And remove ALL plastics from whatever you're powder-painting or they will also melt. Sintered-bronze bushings in such a part will bleed oil out under such heat, ruining the paint as well.
Never tried Eastwood's kit but as I said, high EVEN heat is vital and you aren't going to get that with a hair dryer or a heat-gun. Good luck- J Deryke -----Original Message----- From: Larry - Ohio Time <Larry@ohiotimecorp.com> To: detomaso <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Sent: Fri, Jul 22, 2016 10:55 am Subject: [DeTomaso] NPC: power coat questions Ok guys I have some questions on power coating. I have never done it before but have spent time reading and on Youtube for demos. I would like to power coat a modern sand cast aluminum intake manifold. I will clean up the cast flashing but it will never be smooth. I am looking at the Eastwood Chrome power. I have the Eastwood gun, clean dry air, new electric kitchen oven (fell off truck $15). Questions: 1. If I coat in the shop can I carry the intake outside to put in oven without the power blowing off? 2. Some say pre heat item before coating, some say not to? 3. How clean do the non coated parts (under side, inside) of the intake need to be? With them being dirty and out-gassing in the oven be a problem? 4. Is the chrome power the best to use on the rough sand cast finish of the intake? 5. Use a filler coat? Thick coat? Don't worry about it? 5. Bolts are put into holes to keep the power out of them, leave them on in oven or remove them before oven? Thanks Larry - Cleveland _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages. From what I've experienced, powder coating grew out of the CA restrictions against solvent-based painting. It is a high-build thick-coat paint, and can be of several types where the applied heavy coat is heated to right around the melting point. The heat nearly liquifies the coating so the bits of paint all fuse into a continuous sheet. High, EVEN heat is essential as I found in successfully doing crackle-paint which is similar. In aerospace, we found the the temp required by some proprietary powder paints including teflon varied from 350F to 700F, so don't mix-and-match paint, heaters & instructions from different sources and expect to get good results. And remove ALL plastics from whatever you're powder-painting or they will also melt. Sintered-bronze bushings in such a part will bleed oil out under such heat, ruining the paint as well. Never tried Eastwood's kit but as I said, high EVEN heat is vital and you aren't going to get that with a hair dryer or a heat-gun. Good luck- J Deryke -----Original Message----- From: Larry - Ohio Time <Larry@ohiotimecorp.com> To: detomaso <detomaso@server.detomasolist.com> Sent: Fri, Jul 22, 2016 10:55 am Subject: [DeTomaso] NPC: power coat questions Ok guys I have some questions on power coating. I have never done it before but have spent time reading and on Youtube for demos. I would like to power coat a modern sand cast aluminum intake manifold. I will clean up the cast flashing but it will never be smooth. I am looking at the Eastwood Chrome power. I have the Eastwood gun, clean dry air, new electric kitchen oven (fell off truck $15). Questions: 1. If I coat in the shop can I carry the intake outside to put in oven without the power blowing off? 2. Some say pre heat item before coating, some say not to? 3. How clean do the non coated parts (under side, inside) of the intake need to be? With them being dirty and out-gassing in the oven be a problem? 4. Is the chrome power the best to use on the rough sand cast finish of the intake? 5. Use a filler coat? Thick coat? Don't worry about it? 5. Bolts are put into holes to keep the power out of them, leave them on in oven or remove them before oven? Thanks Larry - Cleveland _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list [1]DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com [2]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages. References 1. mailto:DeTomaso@server.detomasolist.com 2. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso